A Watch This Elegantly Complicated Has No Right to Be So Compact

No other watch brand can seamlessly blend a classy moon phase calendar complication and a sporty racing chronograph like Zenith.

The new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar mirrors the case proportions of the A386 line from 1969, the first watches to house the El Primero chronograph movement. While this multiple-complication Chronomaster dates back to the 1970s, it was reintroduced in 2024 with a compact 38mm case.

Zenith

The steel versions released last year were impressive enough, but the new rose gold and black Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar adds a measure of vintage sophistication.

Coming off an impressive run at Watches and Wonders 2025, Zenith appears to have saved its most wearable and approachable, if not quite affordable, new watch for after the dust settled.

El Primero and more

It may not have the name recognition of the Rolex Daytona or Omega Speedmaster, but for chronograph aficionados, the Zenith El Primero is second to none. Its 1/10th second register and high-beat 36,000vph accuracy are top of the class.

Zenith

What’s more, Zenith has consistently demonstrated an exceptional aptitude for geometric balance and proportioning in its dial layouts. Adding a day, month and moon phase to an already busy dial could muck things up, but not with Zenith.

A date window already existed at 4:30 in the El Primero template, so small day and month windows are masterfully placed right above the rose gold-plated running seconds register at nine o’clock and the rose gold-plated chronograph seconds register at three o’clock.

The moon phase is incorporated into the rose gold-plated chronograph minutes register at six o’clock through a crescent moon-shaped cut-out in the dial.

Zenith

Unlike most chronographs, the central second hand on the El Primero makes a complete revolution every 10 seconds. A rose gold-plated 1/10th-second chapter ring counts to 100, while a black chapter ring placed outside measures the elapsed time in tenths of a second.

Discrete elegancy

Despite the precious metal, the new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar is subdued by today’s luxury watch standards. The 18-karat rose gold is warm and balanced out by black on the dial and leather strap.

Zenith

The 38mm case size creates a discrete silhouette that doesn’t jump off the wrist like many audacious luxury watches. Its luster is muffled further by the sporty dial layout that, even with the added calendar compilation, echoes 1970s racing chronographs.

Zenith

Quiet luxury has negative connotations of flavorless neutral colors and bland design. Still, this watch fits the traditional definition in that it is unassuming to the untrained eye and has a luxurious price and pedigree.

Even with the addition of a precious metal, this Zenith chronograph maintains the brand’s IYKYK reputation. The impressive combination of complications is tucked away in a compact case that doesn’t disclose its value, making it an excellent humble-flex.

Availability and pricing

The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar in 18-karat rose gold is available now from Zenith and authorized dealers for $26,300.

Steel versions of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar are still available and, depending on the strap, cost between $13,400 and $13,900.

Zenith

Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar

Specs

Case Size	38mm
Movement	Zenith El Primero caliber 3610 automatic
Water Resistance	50m

• $26,300 at Zenith

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