The 16 Most Important New Watches from Rolex, Grand Seiko, Panerai and More

All the key drops from Watches and Wonders Geneva, the biggest release party in high-end horology.

By Ben Bowers, Johnny Brayson, Brad Lanphear, and Jack Seemer

Published April 3, 2025

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Another year, another Watches and Wonders Geneva. High-end horology’s largest release party brings hundreds of new references from some of the most storied names in luxury watchmaking — Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier and more — as well as up-and-comers like Norqain and Ressence. Here are the watches that stole the show.

Watches and Wonders Geneva: The watch world’s biggest release party may be over but the year in horology has just begun. Catch up on all the key novelties from Rolex, Panerai, Patek Philippe and more.

Grand Seiko redefines mechanical accuracy with new Spring Drive movement

Grand Seiko SLGB003

Specs

Case Size	37mm
Movement	Grand Seiko Cal. 9RB2 Spring Drive UFA automatic
Water Resistance	100m

$10,900 at Grand Seiko

The first model to house a Spring Drive UFA movement, Grand Seiko’s most accurate automatic watch boasts an accuracy of +/-20 seconds per year — along with the brand’s first ever bracelet with an on-the-fly micro-adjust clasp.

Grand Seiko UFA shown on a wrist — The Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA worn by Gear Patrol’s Ben Bowers.

Rolex hints at its future plans, merging style, heritage and innovation

Rolex Land-Dweller

Specs

Case Size	36mm, 40mm
Movement	Rolex Cal. 7135 automatic
Water Resistance	100m

$14,900 at Rolex

The Land-Dweller marks the start of a new era for Rolex in more ways than one. Most obvious is that it’s the brand’s first watch with an integrated bracelet since the discontinuation of the Oysterflex over two decades ago.

rolex land-dweller in platinum — Changes in lighting accentuate the hexagonal dial pattern.

That fact alone would be significant enough to warrant the title of Rolex’s most important watch in decades, but sweetening the pot is a new movement with the all-new Dynapulse escapement — a revolutionary mechanism which represents The Crown’s biggest movement innovation in nearly a century.

Tudor goes deep with most extreme dive watch in its history

Tudor Pelagos Ultra

Specs

Case Size	43mm
Movement	Manufacture caliber MT5612-U automatic
Water Resistance	1,000m

$5,950 at Tudor

Tudor’s Pelagos was already the brand’s top-of-the-line diver, but the Pelagos Ultra sets an extreme new performance standard for the brand. The Ultra features more titanium in its slightly larger 43mm case, eschewing steel entirely for a mix of Grade 2 and Grade 5 titanium.

Tudor Pelagos Ultra dive watch shown up close being worn on a male wrist. — The 43-millimeter case size dominates the wrist.

Its Manufacture movement is METAS certified. It features bi-color lume on the hands and bezel for heightened visibility. The dial is cleaner to improve legibility. Most impressive of all, its depth rating is 1,000m—double the rating of the standard Pelagos.

A darling ’80s sports watch returns with new technology under the hood

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph

Specs

Case Size	38mm
Movemet	Solar quartz
Water Resistance	200m

$1,850 at TAG Heuer

After years of hype and scorn on the vintage market, TAG Heuer revives the original Formula 1 line with much-improved specs. It has a 38mm case and runs on a solar-powered quartz movement.

TAG Heuer F1 watch solargraph — Each Formula 1 Solargraph reference with a rubber strap is limited edition.

The collection includes nine watches in total, six of which are limited-edition. It is set to release alongside major races in the 2025 Formula 1 season, beginning with the Miami GP on May 2, and culminating with the Singapore GP on October 3.

A classic pilot’s watch gets a sporty upgrade ahead of summer

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403

Specs

Case Size	40mm
Movement	Oris Cal. 403 automatic
Water Resistance	50m

$4,300 at Oris

Oris’s signature Big Crown Pointer Date gets an earthy update with two new colors, a leafy green and terracotta orange. The definitive central date hand corresponds to a 31-day railroad track along the outside rim of the dial.

Oris big crown pilot's watch — The earth tones of the dials pop in daylight.

The Calibre 403, outfitted with an in-house automatic movement, features a small second hand at six o’clock with a railroad track that matches the date register. It is available with a steel H-link bracelet or a brown deer leather pin-buckle strap.

An iconic diver gets better in nearly every way

Panerai Luminor Marina PAM03323

Specs

Case Size	44mm
Movement	Paneri caliber P.980 automatic
Water Resistance	500m

$9,700 at Panerai

This 44mm dive watch places Paneri’s unmistakable, gorgeously minimalist dial in its most durable case ever. The Italian watchmaker engineered a new stainless steel alloy, blending iron, chromium, nickel and molybdenum with a special melting and purifying process to maximize strength and corrosion resistance.

panerai watch — The Luminor Marina makes a strong case for a leather strap on a dive watch.

Though the watch is also available on a leather strap, a novel V-shaped bracelet design introduces Paneri’s tool-free Quick Length adjustment system, offering a 2mm range on both sides of the clasp.

A legendary movement resurfaces in an unexpected form factor

Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135

Specs

Case Size	39mm
Movement	Zenith caliber 135 manual
Water Resistance	50m

$49,900 at Zenith

Zenith revives its award-winning caliber 135 movement for a 160th-anniversary watch that is limited to 160 pieces.

The dial is a genuine work of art, combining a brick guilloche pattern, lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl, framed in a platinum case.

The hand-wound movement beats at 18,000 VpH with a 72-hour power reserve.

The most unique mechanical watch on the planet expands its versatility

Ressence Type 7

Specs

Case Size	41mm
Movement	Ressence ROCS 7 automatic (ETA base)
Water Resistance	50m

$40,800 at Ressence

Ressence’s most advanced tool watch combines the brand’s two main signatures — its mesmerizing ROCS movement and distortion-free oil-filled dial — with a Grade 5 titanium integrated bracelet and GMT complication.

Ressence Type 7 being worn on a male wrist. — Even in person, the dial appears almost digital.

A notoriously innovative Swiss brand drops the lightest mechanical watch of all time

Ulysse Nardin Diver Air

Specs

Case Size	44mm
Movement	Ulysse Nardin Cal. UN-374 automatic
Water Resistance	200m

$38,000 at Ulysse Nardin

The lightest mechanical dive watch ever made, the 1.8-ounce Diver Air features a heavily skeletonized movement made of titanium and silicon and a case that combines titanium, carbon fiber and recycled fishing nets.

Ulysses Nardin Diver Air watch shown on man’s wrist reaching into a blazer pocket — The most striking aspect of the Diver Air is how light it feels on the wrist.

A fan-favorite pilot’s watch gets a surprise overhaul

Bremont Altitude MB Meteor

Specs

Case Size	42mm
Movement	La Joux-Perret Caliber BB14 automatic
Water Resistance	100m

$5,700 at Bremont

Named after the RAF’s first fighter jet, the MB Meteor is the most advanced evolution of Bremont’s toughest pilot’s watch.

Bremont Altitude MB Meteor on a mans wrist wearing a black sweater — The tactile feel of the inner bezel operation is so satisfying.

The shock-resistant, anti-magnetic Trip-Tick titanium case system has been slimmed down from the original version without compromising its effectiveness, and the inner rotating bezel is smoother and more precise with added clicks.

It runs on a La Joux-Perret automatic movement and features a refined dial — available in light or dark — that’s full of aviation Easter eggs.

Patek’s biggest release in decades finally hits its stride

Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G

Specs

Case Size	40mm
Movement	Patek Philippe caliber 26‑330 S C/434 automatic
Water Resistance	30m

Learn More

Patek Philippe has introduced two new references to the Cubitus collection in a more manageable 40-millimeter size, down from the 45-millimeter case that debuted in 2024. Available in white gold and rose gold, they are the first two precious metal offerings in the collection.

Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128 1G worn on mans wrist — The new 40mm case size makes the Cubitus feel more in proportion.

Technically, at 8.5mm thin, these 40mm references are also slightly thicker than their 45mm counterparts, which measure 8.3mm thin. It runs on a Patek Philippe caliber 26‑330 S C/434 automatic movement, visible through an exhibition case back.

An approachable brand puts a playful spin on a classic travel feature

Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer

Specs

Case Size	40mm
Movement	Nomos Cal. DUW 3202 automatic worldtimer
Water Resistance	100m

$4,720 at Nomos

The most advanced addition to the sporty Nomos Club line, the Neomatic Worldtimer is also one of the most unique interpretations of the timezone-spanning complication. A home time is set on the 24-hour sub-dial at three o’clock, and the pusher at two o’clock moves the central hands to the time at the city indicated at 12 o’clock.

Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer shown on the wrist of a male arm. The cuff of a jacket, sweater and shirt are also visible next to the watch — Light blue is one of the six limited edition dial colors available.

Typical to the Club line, the case is only 10 millimeters thick and has a 100-meter dive rating. It is available in a silver or blue dial, with six additional dial colors available in a limited edition of 175 pieces each.

Bulgari takes back the crown for the world’s thinnest tourbillon

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

Specs

Case Size	40mm
Movement	Bulgari caliber BVL180 hand-wound
Water Resistance	None

$678,000 at Bulgari

Bulgari’s insatiable pursuit of thinness continues with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch.

The brand managed to squeeze a skeletonized tourbillon movement into the insanely thin Octo Finissimo titanium case, resulting in a watch that measures just 1.85mm thick. The watch marks Bulagari’s tenth world record in watch thinness.

IWC trots out the dark horse of its expanded sports watch collection

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic

Specs

Case Size	42mm
Movement	IWC caliber 82110 automatic
Water Resistance	100m

$19,500 at IWC

IWC updated one of its most beloved case designs with a black zirconium oxide ceramic. Even smaller parts like the crown and the crown protection are engineered from this extremely hard and scratch-resistant material.

IWC watch — The black ceramic appears charcoal as the vertical brushing is highlighted by the light.

The automatic movement is contained within a titanium layer that accommodates the exhibition case back screws. With anti-reflective sapphire crystal and 100-meter water resistance, this is one of IWC’s toughest sports watches.

Cartier goes back in time for a fresh take on a forgotten gem

Cartier Tank à Guichets

Specs

Case Size	25mm
Movement	Cartier caliber 6755 MC
Water Resistance	None

$61,200 at Cartier

First released in 1928, the Tank à Guichets is the second most coveted discontinued Cartier watch after the Crash, according to auction results. It is back in production with a special crown placement at 12 o’clock, a feature only found on the original reference and a handful of limited edition releases. The brushed finish, squared-off case, and jump time dial epitomize Art Deco modernism from the 1930s.

Three regular production models are available in yellow gold, rose gold and platinum with the time displays centered. A 200-piece limited edition platinum reference has the hour skewed to the top left corner and the minutes track skewed to the lower right corner.

The most complicated wristwatch in history is surprisingly wearable

a watch with many complications on the dial

Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication

Specs

Case Size	45mm
Movement	VC caliber 3655 hand-wound
Water Resistance	None

at Vacheron Constantin

Boasting an astounding 41 complications and a 72-hour power reserve when fully wound, the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication is nothing short of mind-blowing. Along with the local time, it has a second time zone and a world time, each regulated by a tourbillon.

Vacheron watch — The reverse of the dial displays all the astronomical complications.

A perpetual calendar provides eight different measurements, including day of the month, day of the week, date, year, month and week of the year. It indicates moon phases and tidal phases. There are 14 astronomical indications, including sunrise and sunset, both solstices, sunset time and the zodiac. A split-second chronograph and power reserve indicator are also included.