An Obscure Dive Watch from the ’60s Returns in Proper Vintage Fashion

Vulcan outfitted this dive watch with a very specifically marked chronograph.

close view of the dial and bezel on a chronograph watch

Published February 28, 2025

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Updated February 28, 2025

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Despite producing a surprisingly small number of watch references in its 167-year history, Vulcain has an impressive back catalog.

The most famous example is the Vulcain Cricket, which housed the world’s first alarm complication. It was eventually worn by President Eisenhower, followed by subsequent Comanders in Chief, and earned the moniker the “President’s Watch.”

a black chronograph dive watch on a man's wrist — The Vulcain Skindive Chronograph is a spot-on reproduction from the 1960s.

Close behind is the Skindiver Nautique, Vulcain’s first dive watch, which was released in 1961. It became a cult classic among dive watch enthusiasts and was eventually revived in 2023 after the brand was raised from dormancy in 2002.

a vintage Vulcain dive watch — A vintage Skindive Chronograph from the 1960s.

An under-appreciated Vulcain reference is the chronograph version of the Skindiver, which had a short production life in the 1960s. Fortunately, this dive-specific chronograph is being pulled from the depths of obscurity with a spot-on reproduction.

Sunken treasure

The new Vulcain Skindiver Chronograph possesses all the design elements that made the 1960s the golden age of dive watches. It has big, boxy applied hour markers, boldly colored dial markings on a simple background and wide, squared off hands.

a chronograph dive watch with a white dial — The Skindiver Chronograph also comes in a “panda” dial.

The dial markings reflect the attention to detail required to recreate the era-specific look. The outer seconds and tachymeter scales emulate the stamping technique used to mark dials at the time, as do the overlapping markings on the chronograph dial.

As was customary with 1960s tool watches, the case and bezel are simple and completed with piston-style pushers and a screw-down crown. Fans of the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique will recognize the squared-off beveled baton hands marked with long lume bars.

a black Vulcain dive watch — The chronograph dial is specifically marked for skin diving but also features a tachymeter.

The most interesting part of the Skindiver Chronograph’s dial is the 30-minute counter placed at three o’clock. Unlike SCUBA diving, skin diving is done with no wetsuit or breathing apparatus, so skindiver watches are designed to track short periods of time and don’t require any more than a 100-meter dive rating.

Accordingly, the 30-minute chronograph dial has an orange section noting the first three minutes, followed by longer dashes noting the following two three-minute segments. Since most people can’t hold their breath for longer than nine minutes, this is all that is needed to track a dive.

Modern specs

The Skindiver Chronograph may be dripping with 1960s vibes, but the hardware on this faithful reproduction meets modern dive watch standards. The screw-down crown, domed sapphire crystal and screw-in steel case back ensure a 200-meter dive rating.

close view of a white dial on a chronograph watch — The Skindive Chronograph runs on a Valjoux caliber 7753 automatic movement.

Vulcain’s manufacturing facilities are in Switzerland, and this watch uses a Swiss-made Valjoux caliber 7753 automatic chronograph movement. Not only is this a famously reliable movement, but it is easy and affordable to service.

Vulcain has the wonderful practice of providing an abundance of strap options for its watches at the time of purchase.

the steel case back of a dive watch — The screw-in steel case back features a fun diver relief.

The Skindiver Chronograph can be completed with ten different strap options, including a steel three-link bracelet, a steel beads of rice bracelet, several leather options and a black rubber tropical strap.

Availability and pricing

The Vulcain Skindiver Chronograph has been teased on the brand’s social media as being available “very soon.” Preorders are open now, but no official release date is available yet.

It comes in two different dial colors, each with ten different strap options, ranging from a black rubber tropical strap to a beads of rice steel bracelet. Pricing ranges from $2,700 to $2980, depending on which strap is chosen.