tornek rayville blakjak watch on a stone surface next to a handbookPhoto by Johnny Brayson

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This Reimagined ’90s Military Watch Is Like a Tank for Your Wrist

We go hands-on with the Tornek-Rayville “Blakjak.”

The history between watches and the world’s military is inseparably intertwined. Not only has war driven innovation in watches that resulted in the creation of the first dive watches, pilot’s watches and field watches, but even the concept of the wristwatch itself first gained widespread adoption via soldiers on the battlefield in the late 19th century.

When we think of military watches, those of the mid-twentieth century tend to take up the bulk of our mental real estate. The “Dirty Dozen” field watches and Fliegers of WWII, Type XX chronographs from the 1950s, mil-spec divers by Blancpain, Rolex and Omega in the ’50s and ’60s … there’s a lot of legendary military watches that came from the period.

But the need for military-issued watches didn’t evaporate in the middle of the Vietnam War. Mil-spec watches continue to this day, even if actual government-issued timepieces are a modern rarity, and there are a number of forgotten military watches that came about during less romanticized periods.

One such watch was the MIL-W-46374F Type 6 SANDY 660. Made by Stocker and Yale and issued in the mid-1990s, the Type 6 was a rare example of a military-issued watch with a stainless steel case and bracelet. Very few were ever made, making the watch more of a curiosity than a legend.

But Tornek-Rayville founder Bill Yao felt the Type 6 was worthy of a better story and imagined what would have happened if the watch had seen heavy use during the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq during the 2000s. With some help from Raven Watches founder Steve Laughlin, Tornek-Rayville created the Type 7B — codename “Blakjak” — as a modern, up-spec’d version of the Type 6.

I’ve spent the past few weeks wearing a Blakjak, and while I’m nowhere near a war zone, I have some thoughts.

Tornek-Rayville Type TR 7B “Blakjak”: What We Think

The Blakjak is for people who are into military watches and who like a watch they can beat up. It’s very rugged, well built and feels like it could hold up in a battle (and maybe even be used as a projectile in a pinch). It’s highly functional, and is one of the most readable watches I’ve used despite its busy dial.

However, I don’t believe the Blakjak is for everyone. It’s a big watch, 45mm across the case, and it’s heavy. It also has some sharp finishing on the crown, and when added up the watch ends up being a pretty uncomfortable wear on smaller wrists. But if you’ve got a seven-inch wrist or bigger and love military stuff, then I think you’ll enjoy the Blakjak.

watchTornek-Rayville

Tornek-Rayville Type 7B “Blakjak”

Tornek-Rayville’s reimagining of an obscure military-issue watch from the mid-’90s swaps the original’s quartz movement for an automatic, trades the tritium lume for Super-LumiNova and upgrades the mineral crystal to sapphire, but otherwise maintains its ancestor’s utilitarian design and bulletproof build.

Specs

Case Size 42.5mm
Movement Seiko NH36 automatic
Water Resistance 200m

Pros

  • Built like a tank
  • Easy to read with high-visibility; excellent AR coating on the crystal
  • Additional goodies — carrying case, extra straps, 'zine — make the watch more fun

Cons

  • Wears uncomfortably large and heavy on small wrists
  • Bracelet clasp feels like an afterthought
  • Finishing on the crown is sharp and it digs into the wrist

The build quality is (mostly) impressive

Taking the Blakjak in my hand, it’s hard not to be impressed with its ruggedness. The phrase “built like a tank” gets thrown around a lot when it comes to consumer goods, but here it doesn’t feel like hyperbole. The watch is a beast. It’s big, and it’s heavy. I feel like it could easily be used as a weapon in a pinch.

But there’s some elegance to the build, too. The bezel, which has a DLC steel insert and two levels of deep knurling on the side, is one of the most crisp I’ve ever used. Every movement on it is loud and exact, and it’s a real joy to use. The crown action is also good. It has a satisfying pop, it doesn’t wiggle and it winds far smoother than you’d expect for a watch with a Seiko SII NH36 movement.

My only real qualms about the build quality come down to the bracelet and some of the finishing. The bracelet itself is quite good. All the links are solid, including the end links, and are held together with screws. There are quick-release spring bars on the bracelet to make strap changes easy, and drilled lugs on the case to make them extra easy. My issue is with the clasp. It’s a standard, friction-fit deployant with a safety clasp that never folds flush. It feels very off-the-shelf and cheap compared to the rest of the watch.

My other issue comes down to the finishing. Now, this is not a luxury watch and the finishing in general is fine for what it is. This thing was built for utility, not beauty. My problem is with the finishing on the crown and the base of the crown guards. Both are quite sharp, and they would dig into my wrist while wearing the watch, making it too uncomfortable to wear for long periods.

Legibility is king (but the dial is too crowded)

Great care was taken to ensure the Blakjak’s dial was as easy to read as possible. In typical field watch fashion, the dial displays both 12-hour standard time and 24-hour military time via printed white Arabic numerals. Both displays are located very deep in the center of the dial and are surrounded by a large, curved chapter ring with minute markers and cutouts containing lume plots every five minutes.

The unique curvature of the chapter ring was fashioned to minimize parallax error, and I’ll be damned if it doesn’t work like a dream. When combined with the flat sapphire crystal, which sits just below the bezel and is coated with some very effective anti-reflective coating, and the high-vis white handset, the watch is very easy to read from practically any angle.

a black tornek rayville watch on a mans wrist
A number of details working in unison make the Type 7B incredibly easy to read at any angle.
Photo by Johnny Brayson

That legibility isn’t diminished in the dark, either. Blug-glowing BGW9 Super-LumiNova has been applied to the hands, those aforementioned chapter ring cutouts, and to the pip on the bezel. The lume doesn’t take up much real estate on the dial, but it’s been heavily applied and glows extremely bright, easily lasting through the night.

I do think the dial looks just a bit crowded overall, thought it doesn’t impact readability. The “no radiations” symbol and 7B logo are references to the radiation symbol (it used tritium lume) and 6B logo on the original watch. It’s a nice callout, but one that I think could’ve been omitted for aesthetics’ sake.

The watch also uses a day-date complication, while the original quartz-powered watch only had a date. For the Blakjak’s day function, you can choose to display the day of the week or switch to “mission days” that display Roman numerals, with VII being shown in red as the last day of your mission. I don’t know how useful it is during an actual military exercise, but it’s a fun (or dreadful) way of reminding yourself Sunday has arrived.

You need big wrists to wear this comfortably

I can admit that not every watch was made for every person. And while I tend to wish that every watch were a little smaller, this is a watch that is legitimately too big for me to wear comfortably.

Tornek-Rayville lists the watch as having a thickness of 13.2mm, a bezel diameter of 42.5mm and a lug-to-lug of 49mm. While the thickness is manageable, the case and lug-to-lug measurements are about at the limit of what my 6.25-inch wrists can wear. Except, one of those measurements is misleading.

My calipers put the bezel at just over 42mm, but the case itself is larger than the bezel. The smallest measurement I could get on the case was 45mm when measuring diagonally. If I measure horizontally and include the crown, it’s 47.6mm. The watch head by itself weighs 103 grams, which ain’t light. On the bracelet sized to my wrist, it’s 180 grams — nearly 60 grams more than my Omega Seamaster Midsize on its bracelet. The size and weight cause the watch to move around a lot on my wrist and sit uncomfortably, especially when I factor in the aforementioned sharpness of the crown.

If you have small wrists like me, you’ll probably want to look elsewhere.

black tornek rayville watch on mans wrist
Unless your wrists are seven inches or larger, you may find the Blakjak uncomfortable to wear.
Photo by Johnny Brayson

The included extras are a lot of fun

It’s clear that Yao, Laughlin and company had a lot of fun putting this watch together. Not only did a lot of attention to detail go into designing the watch itself, but the extras that come with it really make the watch more of an experience overall.

The watch includes two additional straps, a quick-release black rubber one and a black mil-spec NATO from Maratac, along with a nice spring bar tool. It all arrives in a cool branded black plastic Pelican-style case that should be vaguely familiar to anyone who’s ever owned a watch from Yao’s other brand, Mk II.

The watch also included a limited-edition “zine” telling the fictional story of a soldier in Afghanistan after 9/11 as he finds uses for his watch in the field. It’s full of pulpy prose and stylish original photography, and I love that the brand went to the trouble of actually printing something rather than just including a card with a QR code to read a digital copy.

Tornek-Rayville “Blakjack”: Alternatives

There’s really only one legitimate alternative to the Blakjak if you’re into this style of military watch, and that’s Marathon. The brand made mil-spec watches alongside Stocker and Yale, and it still has Government contracts today. The closest match in its lineup to the Blakjak is its Jumbo Day/Date Automatic, a 46mm dive watch on a steel bracelet powered by a Swiss-made Sellita movement. Its design is quite similar, and like the original Type 6, it uses tritium lume. But, and this is a big but, it costs $2,500, which is nearly thrice the cost of the Blakjak.

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