Timex Just Cooked Up a $200 Homage to a Legendary High-End Chronograph Watch

The design inspiration for this one is clear.

a closeup of a timex chronograph watchTimex

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Timex doesn’t go around advertising this, but the brand makes some of the best affordable homage watches on the market.

The brand makes watches inspired by iconic models such as the Rolex GMT-Master, IWC Mark series, Rolex Daytona … even the Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy.

Now, Timex is adding another affordable icon homage to its ranks with the latest version of its Waterbury Chronograph.

a timex chronograph watch on a mans wrist
Timex has cooked up another affordable homage, this time taking inspiration from some of the greatest chronographs ever made.
Timex

Tricolor Party

The latest horological legend to draw the attention of Timex’s designers is the Zenith El Primero. For the uninitiated, Swiss watchmaker Zenith was the first brand in the world to release an integrated automatic chronograph to the market with its groundbreaking El Primero movement in 1969.

One of the first Zenith watches to house an El Primero movement was the reference A386, which launched in 1969 and debuted a “tricolor” subdial arrangement.

The three chronograph registers all had a different color — navy, light gray and dark gray — and the style has since been replicated on countless El Primero-powered chronographs from Zenith, up to and including the present day. The tricolor subdials, along with the quirky 4:30 date window, are the clearest visual hallmarks of a Zenith El Primero.

a zenith el primero chronograph watch
This El Primero-powered Zenith Chronomaster Sport makes it pretty obvious where Timex got its inspiration for the Waterbury Traditional Chronograph.
Zenith

Now, Timex is quietly paying homage to Zenith’s icon with the release of the new Waterbury Traditional Chronograph. Like the El Primero, it features the classic tricolor pattern, with its three chronograph registers executed in light gray, dark gray and navy blue from left to right. There’s also a 4:30 date window, in case there was any doubt as to this design’s provenance.

The dial is blue with a sunburst pattern and features applied vintage-inspired lumed markers with red accents. The fencepost hands are also lumed, while the seconds hand gets a bright-red tip — classic El Primero watches have bright red seconds hands, while the seconds hand on the modern Zenith Chronomaster Sport has only a red tip like this.

a timex chronograph watch on a mans wrist as he browses through books on a shelf
The watch is available with a black bezel on a leather strap for under $200.
Timex

Also echoing the Chronomaster Sport is the external bezel, which is available in both black and bare stainless steel forms. On the Timex, the bezel features a tachymeter scale. The contrasting minute track recalls vintage Zeniths and is black with white markings, while the 41mm stainless steel case with sharp lugs and pump-style pushers resembles an upsized Zenith Chronomaster Original.

Pricing and Availability

Timex’s designers obviously had fun flipping through Zenith’s catalog of El Primero-powered models to come up with this design, and if you’re a big fan of Zenith chronographs — which tend to start around $10,000 — this makes for a nice visual alternative without breaking the bank.

Now, this Timex only costs around $200, so obviously you’re not getting anything close to the quality of an actual Zenith. It goes without saying that the movement powering the watch is not an El Primero. It’s not even an automatic. At this price, you’re getting an unnamed quartz chronograph calendar. You’re also getting mineral glass instead of a sapphire crystal.

a timex chronograph watch on some golf clubs
It’s not a Zenith, but if you want the El Primero’s iconic look for pennies on the dollar, you could do a lot worse.
Timex

Still, this is an awfully good-looking watch for 200 bucks, and from a distance, watch nerds are going to do a double-take thinking they’ve just spotted an El Primero in the wild.

The Zenith-inspired Timex Waterbury Traditional Chronograph is available with a black bezel on a quick-release, ethically sourced leather strap from Leather Working Group for $189 or with a steel bezel on a steel bracelet for $209. Both are available noww on Timex’s website.

a timex chronograph watchTimex

Timex Waterbury Traditional Chronograph

Specs

Case Size 41mm
Movement Quartz chronograph
Water Resistance 100m
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