Timex May Have Just Won the Affordable GMT Watch Wars

Rolex Explorer II fans, this is for you.

Published September 12, 2024

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Earlier this year, Timex released what is almost certainly the best watch the American brand has ever created.

That watch was a collab with EDC favorite The James Brand, and it had a whole lot going for it. A titanium case and bracelet. An automatic true GMT movement from Miyota. Sapphire crystals front and back. 200m of water resistance. The list goes on.

At $749, it was also one of the priciest Timex watches ever. But given all you were getting, it was still a hell of a bargain. And I’m far from the only person who thinks so, either, as the limited-edition watch sold out in a flash and is no longer available.

If you missed out on that watch, I have some good news. Today, Timex has launched a brand-new titanium automatic GMT for $200 less than its previous TJB collab, and not only is it non-limited, but it’s styled after one of the most iconic tool watches ever made.

Timex Expedition GMT Titanium Automatic

$549 at Timex

Timex’s Take on the Explorer II

Take one look at the new Timex Expedition GMT Titanium Automatic and it’s clear where the brand got its inspiration. With its sterile metal 24-hour bezel, its black dial with white markers and its yellow-orange GMT hand with its extended pointer, the watch bears a strong resemblance to the original Rolex Explorer II. Or, for a more modern comparison, the watch is effectively a budget version of the Black Bay Pro from Rolex‘s sister brand, Tudor.

Specs-wise, the new Timex shares a lot with the previous James Brand GMT collab, but there are some key differences. Like that watch, this one has a 41mm case in Grade 2 titanium, a sapphire crystal, an exhibition caseback, Super-LumiNova on the hands and indices, a screw-down crown and 200m of water resistance.

timex watch on a ledge — With a titanium case and an automatic GMT movement, Timex’s latest watch might also be its greatest.

Unlike that watch, there is no bracelet. Instead, the watch is paired with a black ventilated silicone strap with quick-release spring bars and a titanium buckle to match the case. The case shape is a bit different, too, with more sharp angles as opposed to the TJB model (from the side, the two cases look nearly identical).

The new model’s bezel is bare titanium with no aluminum insert this time around (it has knurling, but Timex makes no mention of whether or not it rotates). And the watch has a bead-blasted finish instead of the smoother matte finish on the pricier TJB GMT.

But the biggest difference comes down to the movement. The James Brand x Timex GMT housed the Miyota 9075, which is a more premium movement that’s quite thin, has some decoration and, most notably, features a jumping local hour hand — a feature sought by frequent travelers.

timex watch on a mans wrist — If you’re after an ultra-affordable alternative to the Rolex Explorer II or Tudor Black Bay Pro, look no further.

The new Expedition GMT instead uses the other widely available automatic GMT movement out of Japan: The Seiko NH34. It’s a bit more rudimentary and affordable than the Miyota but remains extremely robust and reliable. Its GMT complication functions the more common way, with the 24-hour hand being independently adjustable instead of the local hour hand. It also features a quick-set date.

Pricing and Availability

I’m calling it now: This new Timex is going to be a massive hit.

It looks like an Explorer II/Black Bay Pro without being a direct copy. It has the specs to go toe-to-toe with microbrands and come out on top in many of those matchups. It’s built tough like a tool watch should be. And best of all, it costs just $549.

$549 for an automatic GMT in titanium from a known brand is just silly, but I suppose we should be used to Timex killing the game by now.