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All the Best Releases from the Summer’s Biggest Watch Week

Two watch fairs, along with outside brands looking to steal the show, have closed out the summer with a bang.

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By Johnny Brayson

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It’s been a busy week in the watch world.

Watches & Wonders Shanghai kicked off on August 28 in China, with the much larger Geneva Watch Days show beginning in Switzerland the day after that. Not to be outdone, myriad brands — from small independents to household names — decided to launch watches this same week to try and steal the spotlight for themselves.

It’s been a dizzying way to close out the summer, with too many fantastic releases to keep up with. So to give you an idea of the must-see drops from the past week, I’ve gathered up my favorite new releases from the summer’s biggest watch week below.

H. Moser & Cie. x Studio Underd0g Project Passion

The year’s most talked-about watch collab — and its most controversial — is this unexpected team-up between H. Moser & Cie. and Studio Underd0g. On the surface, the brands couldn’t be more different. The former is a Swiss haute horological force with two centuries of history and an average SRP of $37,000, the latter a British upstart formed during the Covid-19 pandemic that’s best-known for selling $600 watches with Chinese movements.

But what the two brands share is an eye for design, a cheeky sense of humor and an intense passion for watchmaking. It’s this shared passion that led to the Project Passion collab: Two watches with passion fruit-inspired colorways, one from each brand. Moser contributes an Endeavour Perpetual Calendar gussied up in the purple and gold like Lebron James, while Studio Underd0g debuts its 03Series chronograph with a Swiss-made movement for the first time. The only downside? They’re only available as a pair for $65K.

Favre Leuba Sea Sky Chronograph

Cross Favre Lebua off of the vintage watch brands you were hoping to see make a comeback, as that day has now arrived. With new ownership and former Ulysse Nardin CEO Patrik Hoffman at the helm, the second-oldest mechanical watch brand has been reborn with three lines, five models and 22 references making up its spanking-new catalog.

On offer are reimaginings of the Chief sports watch and chronograph and the Deep Blue diver, but my favorite of the lot is the reborn Sea Sky Chronograph. Inspired by a 1970s Favre Leuba model, this pilot’s chronograph combines a tachymeter, telemeter and countdown timer for multiple capabilities, and it also features plenty of high-end touches like a sapphire sandwich treatment, a ceramic bezel insert and an automatic column wheel chronograph movement from La Joux-Perret.

Panerai Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT Ceramica

Did Panerai just launch the ultimate travel watch? The Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT Ceramica sure makes a strong case. For one, the watch uses the brand’s tried-and-true in-house P.2003 automatic movement. It’s a GMT with a locally adjustable hour hand, a date and an easy-to-read 12-hour hand for the second time zone, complete with an AM/PM indicator. It also has a bonkers 10-day power reserve, 100m of water resistance and excellent lume.

Lots of Panerai GMTs have this movement and these features, though, so what sets this one apart? It’s the case material. Made of black ceramic, the watch is highly resistant to scratches from any bumps along your travels, and its low-key matte black finish makes it less tempting to watch thieves than gleaming stainless steal.

M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.1S

Following the recent news that Chanel had acquired a 25-percent stake in his luxury watch brand MB&F, acclaimed independent watchmaker Max Büsser has announced the latest and greatest M.A.D.1 watch from his more affordable M.A.D.Editions brand. Initially launched in 2022, the original M.A.D.1 brought Büsser’s avant-garde horological designs, which typically sell for six figures under the MB&F label, to everyday enthusiasts for just 3,000 CHF thanks in part to its affordable Japanese Miyota movement.

The new version, the M.A.D.1S, is a complete revamp. Featuring an ice-blue dial, the watch is the first M.A.D.1 to house a Swiss-made movement, the La Joux-Perret G101. The new watch is also 3mm slimmer than before thanks to the new movement and a redesigned time display, and a bit pricier at 3,135 CHF (~$3,715). Like every M.A.D.Editions watch, the M.A.D.1S is limited and is only available to purchase via raffle, which is now open to entry.

Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone

Zenith has launched its third collab with contemporary artist Felipe Pantone, and it’s perhaps their most striking yet. A colorful and futuristic take on Zenith’s Defy Skyline Tourbillon, the watch features a unique dial with an iridescent finish that looks like a CD. The effect was achieved through the use of a sapphire disc with a micro-engraved pattern of concentric circles on the top side and a mirrored finish on the bottom.

The watch also features a lightning bolt bridge over the tourbillon, a four-pointed star tourbillon cage, and hands and indices that are designed to resemble a “graphical glitch.” All of these elements are finished in an ethereal metallic rainbow PVD treatment reminiscent of Pantone’s futuristic works. Just 100 examples of the watch are available and will go on sale from Zenith on September 12.

Vulcain Table Clock

One of the greatest examples of mid-century modern design left standing is the TWA Flight Center at New York’s JFK Airport designed by the legendary Eero Saarinen, the man behind the Womb Chair and Pedestal Table. The building is renowned for its space-age themes and organic curves, with a central feature being its hanging, three-sided clock made by Swiss watch brand Vulcain.

Now, Vulcain has issued a home version of the clock in table clock form. The retro desk clock is crafted from stainless steel and features three quartz-powered clock faces, with each capable of displaying a different time zone. The clock will be available on Vulcain’s website from September 26.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue

The comeback tour of the Black Bay Chrono continues. With the hype long gone from its 2021 revamp, Tudor’s flagship chronograph had almost become an afterthought in the brand’s diver-and-GMT-heavy catalog. Then the pink Black Bay Chrono arrived earlier this year and broke the internet, and suddenly, everyone was chatting about the “Baytona” again.

And I don’t expect that chatter to die down following this release. A new version of the Chrono in “Tudor Blue” is a definite crowd-pleaser and will surely go on the wishlist of many a Tudor enthusiast. More than a pretty face, the watch also utilizes the same upgraded five-link bracelet and quick-adjust T-fit clasp as the ultra-rare pink version, signalling that the future of the Black Bay Chrono is indeed bright.

Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz

A surprise release from Hamilton, the brand launched a new version of its most affordable Khaki Field variant that’s better and cheaper than before. The new Khaki Field Quartz comes in either 38mm or 33mm sizes (the latter being the OG size back in the ’80s) and boasts a cleaner dial that eschews the inner 24-hour scale and adds a Dirty Dozen-esque railway minute track.

The dial also features a retro “Khaki” logo that recalls those aforementioned ’80s models and packs in a ton of value with a sapphire crystal, 50m of water resistance and a solid quartz movement from Swiss-based sister brand ETA. All this for just $395, which is more than $100 less than the previous Khaki Field Quartz in 40mm.

Breitling Perpetual Calendar Chronographs

To celebrate 140 years in business, Breitling has released what may be its most complicated watches ever. For the first time in its near-century-and-a-half as a watchmaker, the brand has produced an in-house perpetual chronograph calendar movement.

To mark this momentous occasion, Breitling has simultaneously launched three new watches powered by the groundbreaking movement — one from each of its main chronograph lines: the classic Navitimer, the sporty Chronomat and the dressy Premier. All three perpetual calendar chronos are housed in an 18K red gold case and are limited to 140 pieces each.

Doxa Sub 300T Aristera

10 percent of the population will really love Doxa’s latest watch release. The brand has, for the first time, released a left-handed version of a watch. And not just any watch, but the iconic Sub 300T dive watch. With the crown now on the left side of the case, the watch can be worn on the right wrist while easily manipulating the crown with the left hand while wearing it. Of course, you don’t have to be a leftie to enjoy a “destro” watch. Some people still like to wear them on their left hand so they don’t have a crown digging into their hand.

Other than the crown, the Sub 300T looks just like the righthanded version of the watch. It has the same dual-use bezel, the same beads of rice bracelet, and the same orange “Professional” dial. It also, as you may have notice, still has the date window at 3 o’clock, despite the crown being moved to 9 o’clock. Doxa was able to achieve this by rotating the movement of the watch 180 degrees; a feat which required some clever engineering by the brand.

Longines Legend Diver Expansion

Last year, one of my favorite releases was Longines’ new Legend Diver. Finally available in 39mm, the revamped version of arguably the brand’s best-known watch featured upgrades at every turn. But at launch, there were just two color options available — black and blue — leaving those in the mood for something more adventurous out in the cold.

Well, Longines is looking out for fans of eccentric divers, as the brand has launched three new colorways for the Legend Diver 39. The lacquered dials now come in green, anthracite gray, and a bright red “Terracotta” version. Other than the new colors, these are the same excellent diver as before, meaning they’re all certified as chronometers and diver’s watches.

Oris Aquis Chronograph

Following the upgraded Aquis Date released at Watches & Wonders Geneva earlier this year, Oris has revamped its Aquis Chronograph. Like most Oris releases these days, the watch feels markedly more premium compared to before. The bracelet has a finer taper, the case has been reworked and the dial is more legible.

The movement is also new, but unlike in the Aquis Date, it’s not an in-house caliber (give Oris a couple years, I’m sure one’s coming). The watch now uses the Sellita SW500-1-based Oris Cal. 771, which allows the dial to have a more traditional (and better-looking) 3-6-9 chronograph layout instead of the 12-9-6 layout of the previous generation.

Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière

Christopher Ward‘s unprecedented years-long hot streak continues. This time, the brand has come up with an unexpected version of its flagship Trident dive watch that’s unlike anything we’ve seen from the brand before … or any brand, really. The new diver is CW’s lightest and thinnest yet, with a Grade 2 titanium case and bracelet. The 41mm case measures just 10.85mm thin, while the new bracelet boasts a 6.5mm taper and improved push-button micro-adjust clasp.

Under the hood is a COSC-certified Sellita SW300 automatic movement, while the case gets a new helium escape valve and a fully-lumed ceramic bezel. But the real star of the show is the dial. All of the indices, the logo, and most of the handset are made from Globolight; solid blocks of ceramic lume usually seen on higher-end watch brands like Moser. CW says the lume glows twice as brightly as any other Trident, and since the standard Trident 300 was already one of the brightest divers around, that’s saying something.

Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing

Just a few months after the title changed hands at Watches & Wonders Geneva, we once again have a new record for the world’s thinnest watch — and this time, it’s not one of the usual suspects. Instead of Piaget or Richard Mille stealing the crown back from Bulgari, it was the Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin that managed the herculean feat.

The brand’s ThinKing achieved its incredible 1.65-mm thinness through considerable ingenuity, such as putting the balance wheel and hairspring from the rotor table wheel side by side instead of on top of one another. The watch also makes use of Chaykin’s signature smiley-faced “Wristmon” layout, with the hours and minutes showing up as the “eyes” and the brand’s logo acting as the “mouth.” For now, the watch is only a prototype, so maybe Bulgari still keeps its crown on a technicality.

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