This Retro-Inspired Dive Watch Was Designed for an Elite French Naval Unit

Today I Learned: Members of military Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) units have to wear mechanical watches because the tiny electro-magnetic signature produced by quartz watches is enough to possibly trigger bombs and mines.

When the French Navy’s EOD unit, known as Plongeur Démineur, or clearance divers, needed a new watch, not only did it have to reliably perform its function, but it also had to look absolutely beautiful.

Serica

As such, French watchmaker Serica was an obvious choice. The boutique operation, founded in 2019, had the perfect foundation in its 5303 dive watch and offered the flexibility to produce exactly what was needed.

The new 5303 PLD is familiar at a glance, but it is decorated with some unique features that optimize its performance for the Plongeur Démineur and pay homage to the unit’s heritage.

Serica

Several details on the dial and bezel have been updated by request from the Plongeur Démineur, and the case back is etched with the unit’s emblem. Each watch comes on Serica’s standard steel mesh dive bracelet and and comes with an additional two-piece elastic nylon strap, which copies a strap worn by the French naval unit for decades.

Military issue

Serica provides a dual-track dive bezel marked with meters and minutes to track the maximum working time at any depth without requiring decompression. “Chronométre Amagnétique” is printed on the dial as a safety disclosure that the watch is not quartz-powered.

Serica

The hands and dial design are almost identical to the standard 5303, but the dot on the “lollipop” second hand has been enlarged to enhance legibility. It corresponds with the lollipop dial track, which marks key minute segments for dive duration that align with the bezel.

This is a standard feature on the 5303, but the crown is exceptionally wide compared to the case size, allowing it to be easily operated with wetsuit gloves.

Serica

The elastic dive strap provided with each watch is designed to easily come off the wrist and fit over a wetsuit sleeve when diving. It comes in an olive green option with a yellow stripe that the French Navy has used for decades.

Civilian allotment

As with existing Serica 5303 references, the PVD has 300m water resistance thanks to a screw-down crown, screw-in case back and sapphire crystal.

Serica

The customized bezel features a ceramic insert in the French Navy’s signature dark blue. At the time of purchase, the olive green strap can be swapped out for an alternative matching blue elastic strap.

It runs on a SoProd caliber M100 automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. Although the Swiss movement manufacturer doesn’t have the name recognition of Sellita or ETA, it makes an equally respectable product.

Serica

Only 500 units of the Serica Ref. 5303 PLD are being produced, and 150 are being issued to the French Navy. The remaining 350 units are going up for sale to the public exclusively through Serica’s website.

Serica

Verified military provenance is a highly valued attribute for dive and field watches. This is an opportunity to land one of the coolest boutique dive watches out there with a unique, genuine military configuration.

Availability and pricing

The Serica Ref. 5303 PLD will be available for order on May 20, exclusively through Serica’s website, for $1,885.

It is a limited edition of 350 pieces and comes with an additional elastic dive strap designed exclusively for this watch, available in olive green or navy blue.

Serica

Serica Ref. 5303 PLD

Specs

Case Size	39mm
Movement	SoProd caliber M100 automatic
Water Re	300m

• $1,885 at Serica

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