Did Seiko Quietly Release the Best Compact Dress Watch Under $1,000?

If you pressed me, a devout Seiko Boy, to nitpick the Presage collection, I would say that most of the cases are too big, rarely straying below 40mm.

Otherwise, the expansive collection of affordable automatic dress watches nails every detail almost every time. Moreover, the elevated Classics series perfectly embodies the mid-century aesthetic that the name suggests.

Seiko

It should come as no surprise that Seiko has addressed my lone criticism with a new set of three 36mm references in the Presage Classics series.

I’m not alone in my desire for more slender watches. A cursory survey of the 2025 watch landscape reveals that the sweet spot for fans and, in turn, brands is between 38mm and 36mm.

Seiko

Fortunately, Seiko applied this update with deft restraint, leaving every other element of the Presage Classic design unchanged, if scaled down. The gently beveled lance hands, narrow baton applied indices and the pronounced signed crown remain in place.

Coming full circle

Seiko introduced the Presage collection in the 1960s, but it remained exclusive to Japan until 2016, when the Cocktail Timer stormed the American dress watch market.

Seiko

In the 2010s, most men’s watch cases measured between 42mm and 40mm in diameter, and the Presage collection has remained in that range ever since. But this new downsized upgrade returns to the collection’s mid-century roots.

Scaling the existing Presage Classic case design down to 36mm slightly increases the obtuse angle with which the case transitions to the lugs. This new case maintains a smooth curve where the 40mm version bulges slightly at the sides.

Seiko

It creates an almost elliptical silhouette, similar to 1960s Seiko classics like the King Seiko Hi-Beat and Seikomatic. In my opinion, it finally places the gorgeous mid-century dial design in an appropriately sized and shaped case.

Silky smooth dials

All three Presage Classic 36mm references are decorated with Seiko’s “Edo Silk” dial texture, which looks like a bargain version of a Grand Seiko dial. The gold-plated SPB524 is soft white, the steel SPB521 has an icy blue hue and the steel SPB523 has a creamy off-white sunburst.

Monochrome’s hands-on review offers a much better impression of the dial colors than the brand’s images do.

Due to size constraints, Seiko has replaced the caliber 6R55 movement used in previous Presage Classic references with the caliber 6R51, which is the same automatic movement with manual winding capability and a 72-hour power reserve but without a date complication.

The removal of the date window emphasizes the beautiful dial textures and elevates the overall appearance a bit further up the dress watch formality scale. Plus, the movement is still visible through a sapphire crystal display case back.

Seiko

Whether you’re a narrow-wristed gentleman like me, or simply prefer the old-fashioned look of a “Goldilocks” case, Seiko is dropping the best 36mm dress watch under $1,000.

In the ultra-competitive and trend-driven watch industry, the Presage Classic 36mm will move the goalposts when it launches next month.

Availability and pricing

The first three references of the Seiko Presage Classic 36mm will be available in June for $950 in steel and $1,000 in PVD gold-plated steel.

Seiko

Seiko Presage Classic Series 36mm

Specs

Case Size	36mm
Movement	Seiko caliber 6R51 automatic
Water Resistance	100m

• $950 at Seiko

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