Is Rolex Shutting Down Its Oldest Watch Brand?

A report convincingly claims one of The Crown’s jewels has lost its luster.

an old rolex factory in switzerlandPhoto by Jack Seemer for Gear Patrol

Rolex made headlines in 2023 when the brand acquired Bucherer, which at the time was the world’s largest retailer of Rolex watches. The move, coupled with the subsequent launch of Rolex’s certified pre-owned program, signaled that the brand was looking to exert more control and influence over its market.

But there was another aspect of Rolex’s Bucherer acquisition that was a bit more mysterious: luxury watch brand Carl F. Bucherer was included in the sale.

It was initially unclear what plans Rolex had for CFB, though the Crown claimed at the time of the sale that its new sub-brand would continue to operate independently. Still, the idea of Rolex building a portfolio of brands with CFB alongside Tudor was tantalizing. I even predicted that Rolex’s ownership would lead to widespread renewed interest in the 137-year-old brand.

But it looks like I was (very) wrong, as new reporting indicates that Rolex has decided to shut down Carl F. Bucherer entirely.

a carl f bucherer watch factory in switzerland
Employees at the CFB factory in Lengnau, Switzerland were reportedly told the brand is shutting down.
Carl F. Bucherer

So long, Carl?

Carl F. Bucherer was founded in 1888. That means the brand is not only older than Tudor but also Rolex, which has only been around since 1905. As such, CFB was easily the oldest brand under The Crown’s corporate umbrella.

The brand manufactures its own movements and uses some unique proprietary technologies. Most notable is its peripheral rotor system which rotates around the perimeter of the movement on a ball bearing, thus eliminating the need for the rotor to attach to a bridge or mainplate.

CFB was also the only haute horlogerie brand owned by Rolex, as it has manufactured in-house movements featuring complex complications such as tourbillons, flyback chronographs and minute repeaters — none of which are produced by Rolex or Tudor.

five carbon carl f bucherer watches
In recent years, CFB added a lineup of carbon watches in an apparent attempt to modernize the brand.
Carl F. Bucherer

But despite its horological chops, CFB proved unable to cut through the noise of the crowded luxury watch landscape. The brand has rarely been mentioned among its competition in recent years and receives little attention from watch media. This general unpopularity seems to have sealed its fate.

Business Decision

According to a widely cited report from Swiss magazine Bilanz, Rolex has decided to shut down Carl F. Bucherer due to the brand being a perennial money-loser.

CFB has never turned a profit, the report states, and largely stayed in business due to its status as the personal “hobby” of Jörg Bucherer, the third-generation leader of Bucherer. Mr. Bucherer passed away a few months after Rolex acquired his family brand, meaning CFB’s greatest champion could no longer keep the brand off the chopping block.

an 1800s portrait of Carl Friedrich Bucherer
Carl F. Bucherer was founded by its namesake, Carl Friedrich Bucherer, in 1888, and remained family-owned until purchased by Rolex in 2023.
Carl F. Bucherer

Bilanz claims Rolex informed CFB employees on Friday that the brand was shutting down, with existing boutiques set to close and remaining stock in CFB’s 250 points of sale being cleared out to make way for other brands. Rolex declined to comment to Bilanz on the matter and directed questions to Bucherer, which dismissed them as “rumors.”

Around 100 employees are said to be affected by the move, with most of them likely finding a new home elsewhere at Rolex’s new factory in Bulle, Switzerland. So while this may be bad news for CFB fans, it should make Rolex fans happy as the brand works to get its new factory up to speed to increase supply and further lower prices.

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