An Iconic Dive Watch Makes This Crowd-Pleasing Update Official

Rado joins the downsizing movement by releasing the first regular production Captain Cook 39mm, emphasizing the move with two gorgeous dials.

the case and crown of a Rado dive watchRado

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After 15 years working in and writing about menswear, few occurrences are more satisfying than watching a personal preference become a full-blown trend.

In 2025, I’ve had the pleasure of observing and covering average watch case sizes shrink below 40mm.

the dial of a Rado dive watch
The new Captain Cook has two fumé gradient dial options.
Rado

Making the feeling a bit sweeter, one of my favorite dive watches has officially joined the movement.

After teasing a 39mm case with a limited-edition reference earlier this summer, Rado has now released the first regular production Captain Cook 39mm with two eye-catching dials.

Both have fumé gradient dials inspired by the ocean. One transitions from a silver center to sky blue, like tropical waters, and the other from a turquoise center to black, like polar seas.

a rado dive watch on a man's wrist
This is the first regular production 39mm Captain Cook.
Rado

Aside from the size, the new Captains match the existing standard 42mm references with key details like a concave ceramic bezel insert, rhodium-plated indices, a “beads-of-rice” steel bracelet and the rotating anchor logo on the dial.

Go small or go home

While this is the first time a standard-issue Captain Cook has appeared with a 39mm case, Rado has recently tested the sub-40mm waters with a few offshoot designs.

the back of a Rado watch
The caseback has the standard Captain Cook seahorse and star relief.
Rado

Along with the aforementioned limited-edition 39mm Captain Cook Tennis, Rado has released two versions of the 37mm Captain Cook Over-Pole travel watch and a few 37mm designs with precious stones on the dials.

The Over-Pole is a beautiful watch, but a Captain Cook in name alone. The bedazzled dials are marketed for women and feel out of place on the heritage diver.

Long before both releases, Rado created a limited-edition faithful reproduction of the original 1962 Captain Cook with a 37mm case in 2017 to coincide with the flagship line’s resurrection.

a Rado dive watch
The Captain Cook 39mm comes on the customary “beads-of-rice” steel bracelet.
Rado

Rado split the difference by going with 39mm for these new additions to the permanent collection. It lands closer to the original 37mm, but for legibility, 39mm feels more natural for a dive watch.

That’s coming from someone who can’t get enough 34mm dress watches.

Quietly luxurious details

Unlike other dive watches owned by the Swatch Group, the Captain Cook collection doesn’t have prices inflated solely by reputation. Rather, some luxurious details are discreetly tucked away in the vintage-inspired design, and the price is still below $3,000.

a rado dive watch on a man's wrist
Proper dive watches shouldn’t be much smaller than 39mm for legibility.
Rado

The hands and applied hour markers, which match the shapes printed on the original 1962 dial, are plated in rhodium, a rare corrosion-resistant metal closely related to platinum.

The stainless steel bezel frame holds a high-tech ceramic insert, a super-durable material with an intense luster that Rado uses throughout its catalog.

the side of a Rado dive watch
The Rado anchor logo appears on the crown and the rotating dial icon.
Rado

One of the most significant benefits of being a part of the Swatch Group is having access to its movement design and manufacturing infrastructure.

Rado equipped the 39mm Captain Cook with the exclusive Caliber R763 automatic movement. Based on the ETA Powermatic 80, it has an 80-hour power reserve and an antimagnetic Nivachron hairspring.

the dial of a Rado dive watch
The hands and applied hour markers are plated with rhodium.
Rado

With the Captain Cook, Rado blends a rich heritage with modern refinement as adeptly as any reproduction from any brand. A few missteps aside, it remains a highly capable tool watch aimed at retro diver fans like myself.

The new 39mm case brings the Captain closer to its original specs while offering something refreshing at the same time. It nails the prevailing trend without feeling desperate, and the aquatic-inspired fumé dials add a little extra bait to the hook.

Availability and pricing

The Rado Captain Cook Automatic 39mm is available now from Rado and authorized dealers for $2,450. Two dial colors are available, both coming on the customary “beads-of-rice” stainless steel bracelet.

a Rado dive watchRado

Rado Captain Cook Automatic 39mm

Specs

Case Size 39mm
Movement Rado calibre R763 automatic
Water Resistance 300m

While this is the first regular production Captain Cook with a 39mm case, the limited edition Tennis model released earlier this summer is still available.

It features tennis ball-yellow dots at 12 (love), 15, 30 and 45. Along with the “beads-of-rice” stainless steel bracelet, it comes with a set of three nylon NATO straps.

a Rado tennis watchRado

Rado Captain Cook x Tennis

Specs

Case Size 39mm
Movement Rado caliber R763 automatic
Water Resistance 300m
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