Patek Philippe is widely regarded as the world’s most prestigious watchmaker. The family-owned Geneva-based brand doesn’t often let loose or get casual. But when it does, look out, because it usually signifies a shift in the luxury watch landscape. See the debut of the Aquanaut on its black composite rubber strap in 1997 for proof.
Now, three decades after the Aquanaut, Patek is once again turning heads with it unexpected choice of strap. The brand has launched a pair of complicated white gold watches in white gold — a Nautilus Chronograph and a special World Time — on what appear to be straps made of denim. But, as is usually the case with Patek, there’s a lot more going on beneath the surface.
Denim Crafted from Leather
The new Patek strap looks just like the material you’d find on your favorite jean jacket. It’s blue, has a twill weave and features white stitching. It’s even soft to the touch and feels like denim. But here’s the thing: the strap isn’t made of denim or even cotton at all. It’s in fact a calfskin leather strap that’s been embossed with a denim pattern and hand-stitched. Having handled the watches in person, I can confidently say that no one would know these are made from leather if they weren’t told so directly.
A Blue Nautilus Hype Machine
Every time Patek comes out with a blue-dial Nautilus, well-connected watch flippers start seeing dollar signs. This latest model is sure to be a hype monster, as not only does it come on the unique denim-style strap, but it’s also the first white gold Nautilus Chronograph in Patek’s collection, with only rose gold and a rose gold two-tone.
On top of that, the white gold case combined with the opaline blue-gray dial gives the watch that classic Nautilus look, best exemplified by the gone-but-not-forgotten stainless steel reference 5711. And since the 5711 and its white-gold follow-up the 5811 have been highly sought-after by collectors for years, I expect this new ref. 5980/60G to have similarly sky-high demand.
