The Sleeper Steel Sports Watch Line of the Decade Now Has Its Grail Edition

Parmigiani’s Tonda PF luxury sports line has always stood out since its launch in 2021, but the series’ latest reference is an entirely different animal.

Parmigiani

By Ben Bowers

Published March 12, 2025

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Updated March 12, 2025

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Parmigiani is a quintessential IYKYK watch fan brand, though it is relatively young by industry standards.

The company was founded in 1996 by the famed watch restorer Michel Parmigiani. Over the years, it has produced an absurd number of in-house movements and intricate pieces.

In 2021, the watchmaker made an equally impressive personnel move by hiring Guido Terreni—a longtime executive of Bulgari often credited with masterminding projects like the ludicrously thin Octo Finissimo line—as its new CEO. A few months later, the brand also announced its new Tonda PF Collection to celebrate its 25th anniversary.

The line consisted of seven models in four styles – all featuring sleek integrated bracelets – seemingly a prerequisite of premium modern sports watches these days – and clean, minimalist aesthetics.

The most approachable Tonda PF Micro-Rotor was a simple two-hander with a date function originally offered in a larger 40mm size. A year later, the brand introduced a more unisex-friendly version in 36mm (41mm lug-to-lug) and has since added a variety of colored references in various precious metals, including bolder two-toned takes.

But the newest entry to the line should now easily take the cake as the most coveted (and unfortunately exclusive) iteration yet.

Platinum for Prestige

The Parmigiani PF Micro-Rotor Platinum Stone Blue worn on wrist of a mail wearing a navy blazer. — The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Platinum Stone Blue is decidedly stealth wealth in some respects given that it could easily be mistaken for a steel watch at a glance.

Like its forebearer, the Tonda PF 36mm Automatic Stone Blue, the new Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Platinum Stone Blue (REF. PFC914-2020022-200182) echoes the vibe of timekeeping titans like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, often credited with birthing the luxury steel sports watches trend.

Yet details, like it’s now line-defining semi-knurled round bezel, keep it firmly distinct and distanced from homage watch territory.

The spirit of this particular reference is also a far cry from the bold “steel at the price of gold” marketing assertations on which the Royal Oak line was built.

Instead, as the name gives away, the case of the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Platinum Stone Blue is made from 950 platinum, arguably the king of jewelry-grade precious metals.

The number refers to the metal’s purity, signifying that it comprises 95% platinum with just 5% remaining for other metals needed to constitute the luxury alloy.

A view of running down the bracelet of the Parmigiani PF Micro-Rotor Platinum Stone Blue against a blue gradient background — The integrated polished bracelet is made from 950 platinum with a 18ct white gold folding clasp.

The integrated polished bracelet is also primarily made from 950 platinum, outside of the 18ct white gold folding clasp.

The swap for platinum over steel is far from revolutionary in the sports watch world. Many other watchmakers have employed the method to elevate their entry-level offerings to a new luxury tier. In far too many cases, the resulting mashup between premium and pragmatic design details results in watches that feel clunkily executed and disjointed.

But in this instance, the precious metal appears to pair exceptionally well with the refined look of the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor’s case, which measures 40mm across and just 7.8mm thick.

Blue for Versatility

Though the watch’s streamlined platinum case and bracelet make quite a statement, the so-called “Stone Blue” dial is the true main event.

Its lighter blue shade with hints of grey and white feels understated and luxurious. It seems versatile, too, and should easily work with casual or formal attire.

A view of the blue dial of the Parmigiani PF Micro-Rotor Platinum Stone Blue is shown from the edge to reveal the depth and texture of the dial elements. The watch is shown against a blue gradient background. — The sandblasted dial treatment adds a subtle texture to the stone blue dial when viewed up close.

The sandblasted treatment also gently teases texture and depth the longer you stare at it, in contrast to the more avert “Grain d’Orge hand-guilloché” dial treatment used on its steel counterpart.

Combined with the open-worked delta-shaped hands made of rhodium-plated 18ct gold and a lack of date window, it’s a tour-de-force for fans of minimalist dial design.

Elusive on Purpose

The Parmigiani PF Micro-Rotor Platinum Stone Blue is worn on the wrist of a male wearing a navy blazer. — Even if for those who could afford the price, this spectacular sports watch will be near impossible to come by given it’s limited to a collection of just 25 pieces.

The watch’s Calibre PF703 movement offers a 48-hour power reserve and is key to the timepiece’s thin (7.8mm) design.

It’s also made with the finishing and attention to detail you’d expect from Parmigiani — and, frankly, most watches at this price tier. The star of the show is a grain d’orge guilloché micro-rotor, made as well from 950 platinuim.

A view of the rear case and movement of the Parmigiani PF Micro-Rotor Platinum Stone Blue shown from the edge. The watch is shown against a blue gradient background. — The Calibre PF703 movement offers a 48-hour power reserve and is key to the timepiece’s thin (7.8mm) design.

Given everything offered here, it should surprise no one that the Tonda PF 36mm Automatic Stone Blue’s price point is well beyond what most watch buyers could stomach. But even for those with 85,00CHF (~$96,000) to spend, the chances of owning it still feel far less likely than the Jets winning a Super Bowl.

That’s because the watch is limited to just 25 pieces, ensuring its future status as a grail-level piece among a subset of elite collectors.

Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Platinum Stone Blue

The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Platinum Stone Blue (REF. PFC914-2020022-200182) may echo the vibe of timekeeping titans like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak but it’s semi-knurled round bezel keep it firmly distanced from homage-watch territory. The watch’s streamlined platinum case and bracelet make quite a statement, and so does its so-called “Stone Blue” sandblasted dial that teases texture and depth the longer you stare at it. Combined with the open-worked delta-shaped hands made of rhodium-plated 18ct gold and a lack of date window, it’s a tour-de-force for fans of minimalist dial design.