I Wish Every New Watch Came with This Hidden Feature

It wouldn’t be that hard to do, either.

Published January 14, 2025

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Watch brands don’t get much crazier than MB&F.

The brainchild of watchmaker Max Büsser, MB&F — which stands for Max Büsser & Friends — makes highly complicated and avant-garde “horological machines” that are among the most impressive and mesmerizing products in the entire luxury watch industry.

The brand was established in 2005, which means this year marks 20 years of MB&F. And Büsser has wasted no time in celebrating this milestone by launching a pair of special-edition MB&F watches.

As usual, the two new timepieces are completely out of this world with designs and complications that most other brands can barely comprehend. But despite all of the craziness going on with MB&F’s new watches, I think the most interesting thing about them might actually be their most boring feature.

It’s also something I wish every watch had.

two mb and f watches next to each other — There is a lot going on here, but the most impactful feature is actually hidden.

Sheesh

MB&F’s first two 20th-anniversary watches are the Legacy Machine (LM) Perpetual Longhorn and the Legacy Machine Sequential Flyback Longhorn. Each is a reimagined version of an existing watch from the brand.

The original LM Perpetual debuted in 2015 as a unique perpetual calendar boasting a mechanical processor that automatically protects itself from incorrect adjustment. Unlike nearly every other perpetual calendar in existence, you can’t break it by trying to adjust it at the wrong time. What’s more, each measurement — even the leap year — can be set simply and independently without any special tools.

an mb and f watch — The LM Sequential Flyback is arguably the most impressive chronograph ever.

The LM Sequential Flyback bowed just last year as a flyback version of the brand’s existing Sequential EVO chronograph. The movement features two separate chronographs that can be operated independently, sequentially or simultaneously. A dedicated flyback pusher also enables a flyback function, meaning you can stop, reset and restart each chronograph with a single press.

Both of these movements were originally designed by MB&F friend and watchmaker extraordinaire Stephen McDonnell, both feature the brand’s signature floating escapement above the dial, and each can arguably be considered the most impressive example of its respective complication ever.

Go Longhorns

The brief descriptions above cover the main functions of the two new watches, which again, we have seen before from MB&F. It’s the “Longhorn” in their names that’s (mostly) new.

Back in 2009, MB&F was getting ready to launch the first watch in its Legacy Machine series — the LM1 — and wanted to create a case with elegant, long, dramatically curved lugs. These “Longhorns” were attractive, but impractical, as no one on the team could agree on where they should put the lug holes to create the ideal fit for the watch. Instead, more practical (if uglier) shorter lugs were chosen, which have appeared on every Legacy Machine since.

Fast-forward to 2021. MB&F was celebrating 10 years of the LM1 and wanted to create a special piece unique to mark the occasion. For this one-of-a-kind watch, the team decided to resurrect the Longhorn idea with an ingenious workaround: They drilled two sets of lug holes into each lug, one close to the case and one near the ends of the lugs.

This way, the wearer could choose where to install their spring bars. When installed closer to the watch, the watch will fit more snug. When installed near the lugs’ extremity, you’ll have a watch better suited to a larger wrist.

As you may have guessed, MB&F has brought these Longhorn lugs to the new LM Perpetual Longhorn and LM Sequential Flyback Longhorn. Both watches boast the gorgeous lengthy lugs, with both featuring double lug holes for a more custom fit.

an mb and f watch on a mans wrist — When placing the spring bars in the lug holes closest to the case, the watch becomes more suitable for a smaller wrist.

This is not a feature I recall seeing on any watch before. Ming has made watches with double lug holes, but that’s just to accommodate straight or curved spring bars — it’s more about aesthetics than fit. This idea from MB&F is so smart and obvious I wish it were something every watch would implement.

You don’t necessarily need super-long lugs to accommodate two sets of lug holes, either. The cost of adding them would be inconsequential to brands, and who doesn’t love a little customization as it relates to fit? I really hope other brands follow MB&F’s lead here.

Pricing and Availability

In addition to the Longhorn lugs, the two 20th-anniversary Legacy Machines also incorporate several other notable details from the previously mentioned one-off LM1: their cases are made of stainless steel instead of platinum and their dials feature rhodium-plated base plates with glossy black lacquer subdials and blued hands. The overall look is quite stunning.

As you probably guessed, both watches are very expensive and very exclusive. Each is priced at CHF 168,000 (~$184,000) and limited to 20 examples apiece.

But don’t get too discouraged. MB&F has announced that this is just the start of its 20th birthday celebration and we should expect more special releases throughout the year. Huzzah!