Is This $1,500 Watch the New King of Affordable Rolex Vibes?

Swiss-made is a loaded designation within the watch world.

While Switzerland remains the pinnacle of the luxury watch industry, the nation by no means has a monopoly on producing great watches, with Germany and Japan at least having shown the ability to put out watches that are just as good as the best that the Swiss have to offer.

What’s more, the term “Swiss Made” is a legal designation from the Swiss government that denotes just how much of a watch needs to come from the landlocked European nation to be declared as such.

In the most basic terms, in order to display “Swiss Made” on its dial, a watch must have a Swiss movement (assembled in Switzerland from at least 50 percent Swiss parts), said movement must be encased in Switzerland, the watch’s final inspection must also take place in the country. Most importantly, at least 60 percent of the watch’s total manufacturing costs must be generated in Switzerland.

A “Swiss Made” label is not the ultimate arbiter of a watch’s quality, but it does at least indicate that the watch was mostly produced in the country with the most robust watch industry and the most illustrious horological history. In other words, it’s never a bad thing for a watch to say “Swiss Made.”

That brings me to the latest watch from Texas-based microbrand Jack Mason, which has just released its first-ever Swiss-made watch. But is it really the brand’s best watch yet, or is it all just marketing?

Jack Mason

Jack Mason Canton

• $1,499 at Jack Mason

The Rolex Vibes Are Strong

For its first Swiss-made watch, Jack Mason completely redesigned and reinvented its Canton model to create what it believes is the brand’s best everyday all-rounder.

I’ve handled the watch, and what struck me most about it was its Rolex-like looks. Jack Mason certainly isn’t claiming the Canton is any kind of affordable Rolex alternative, but I think that’s the spot it’s going to find in the market.

Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

With a three-link tapering Oyster-style bracelet with polished center links, a smooth polished bezel and large lume-filled rectangular applied indices on a textured dial, the Canton looks an awful lot like some versions of the Rolex Datejust. And since the Datejust is one of the best everyday watches you can buy, I don’t blame Jack Mason for taking some apparent inspiration from The Crown here.

Of course, the Canton still distinguishes itself enough to come across as its own thing. There’s a six o’clock date window rather than a Cyclops at 3. The hands are sharper and more pronounced. There’s a splash of patriotic color on the counterweight of the seconds hand. And the watch has a sapphire display caseback showing off its Swiss-made automatic movement — the relatively new (and quite nice) La Joux-Perret G100 — something you won’t see on any Datejust.

Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

Stepping Up Their Game

It wasn’t that long ago that Jack Mason was derided by the common watch enthusiast and viewed strictly as a dreaded “fashion brand.” Whether that viewpoint was fair or not, the brand has made a concerted effort over the past two years to win over collectors, and its strategy has been working.

First came the Strat-o-timer GMT at the tail end of 2022. It was one of the first watches on the market to use the then-new Miyota 9075 caliber, easily the most affordable “true” GMT movement on the market, and it still arguably ranks as the best GMTs you can buy for under a grand.

Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

The Strat was followed up with the Ellum, a more niche product but no less impressive. It’s a conservatively sized mid-century-inspired dress watch with a rare linen dial and a hand-wound Sellita movement, marking the first time the brand had used a Swiss mechanical movement in one of its watches.

Now, we have the Canton, which represents yet another step up for the brand. While I haven’t seen the Ellum in person, I was able to compare the Canton to the Strat-o-Timer, and while both are well-finished watches, there’s no doubt that the Canton is a cut above its older, Texas-assembled sibling.

Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

A Brand at a Crossroads

With its improved finishing and specs, along with its crowd-pleasing design, the Canton is technically the best watch Jack Mason has ever made. But there are some drawbacks to the watch’s improvements.

One is the price. While the Strat-o-Timer and Ellum were able to stay below the $1,000 mark at $999 and $949, respectively, the Canton comes in considerably higher at $1,499 — essentially a 50-percent increase over the brand’s previously priciest watch.

That is a big jump, and it puts Jack Mason in direct competition with a range of other more established Swiss-made brands who suddenly offer better bargains, such as Christopher Ward. Even the fantastic Longines Conquest 38 is now within striking distance with its SRP of $2,075.

Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

The other possible drawback to the Canton’s improved quality is, well, the fact that it’s Swiss-made. Granted, that is the entire reason for the watch’s uptick in value, but with all other Jack Masons being assembled and regulated in Texas, I feel a piece of the brand’s identity has been lost with the fancy European-assembled Canton.

The Canton is a really nice watch, and as I already stated, it’s the best watch Jack Mason has ever made. The question is: Does it represent the future of this surging brand and where it’s headed, or is it simply a high-end detour away from the affordable, American watches that have made JM one of the hottest microbrands of the past two years?

Either way, I’m definitely looking forward to seeing whatever Jack Mason comes out with next.

Jack Mason

Jack Mason Canton

Specs

Case Size	39mm
Movement	La Joux Perret G100 automatic
Water Resistance	150m

• $1,499 at Jack Mason

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