A Classic Tool Watch Brand Just Dropped an Affordable Rolex Explorer Alternative

Brand fan Steve McQueen probably would’ve loved this new release.

Published September 4, 2024

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Worlds are colliding with the latest release from German watch brand Hanhart. Well, sort of.

One of Hanhart’s greatest claims to fame is that it was one of a handful of watch brands worn by the late actor and style icon Steve McQueen. The “King of Cool” was known to wear a Hanhart 417 ES pilot’s chronograph in his personal life.

McQueen is also associated with the Heuer Monaco, which he wore in the film Le Mans, and his beloved Rolex Submariner, his most frequently worn personal watch. But it’s actually another Rolex model, the Explorer II, that is nicknamed the “Steve McQueen” — despite the fact that the actor never wore one.

Now, two pieces of McQueen’s watch history are coming together in a very abstract way. While not technically having anything to do with Rolex, Hanhart’s latest watch sure looks like a fantastic affordable alternative to a different model from Rolex’s Explorer line, the Explorer I.

Hanhart Preventor HD12

$1,370 at WatchBuys

I bet McQueen would’ve loved the Hanhart Preventor HD12

Hanhart’s new watch is called the Preventor HD12, and it’s the latest entry in the brand’s Pioneer series of pilot’s watches, to which McQueen’s 417 ES chronograph also belongs. However, it’s quite the departure for the collection.

The Preventor HD12 is smaller and simpler than other Hanhart Pioneer watches, and while it’s technically a basic pilot’s watch, one could be forgiven for classifying the Preventor as a field watch given its smaller dimensions, its basic and legible dial and its robust water resistance of 150m.

hanhart chronograph watch on a mans wrist — Steve McQueen frequently wore Hanhart’s 417 ES, a WWII-era pilot’s chronograph.

The watch still works in some subtle pilot’s watch cues, however, like the oversized crown and the old-school cathedral hands, but generally, I think it’s a watch that straddles a lot of categories and really functions perfectly as a general everyday watch — just like the Rolex Explorer.

Particularly on a three-link steel bracelet with the black dial, the 39mm Preventor HD12 makes for a great affordable alternative to the Rolex icon. It’s similarly sized, the spec sheet is comparable and the styling is close enough to be reminiscent of the Explorer without even coming close to copying it. Pretty dang good for less than $1,400 on a bracelet.

black hanhart watch on a mans wrist — The Rolex Explorer vibes are strong here, but no one could accuse the Preventor of being a copy.

Now in HD(12)

In addition to adding another great affordable Explorer to the market, the Preventor HD12 has another trick up its sleeve — one that’s far more important to Hanhart’s overall strategy as a brand.

The “HD12” in the model name refers to HD12 steel, a new hardened steel developed by Hanhart making its debut on the Preventor. The stainless steel undergoes a high-tech two-step process wherein carbon is diffused directly into the steel in a hardening process that allows a transition from a harder exterior to a softer interior, which Hanhart says prevents the steel from becoming brittle. The material is then finished off with a PVD coating for added scratch protection.

blue hanhart watch on a mans wrist — The stainless steel used in the Preventor’s case undergoes a proprietary hardening treatment that took Hanhart two years to develop.

When it’s all said and done, HD12 steel has a hardness rating of 1,200 Vickers — nearly five times the hardness of untreated 316L stainless steel. The treatment sounds similar to 1,200-Vicker coatings used by microbrands like Traska, RZE and Jack Mason and should allow you to wear the Preventor HD12 with abandon, as it will be far more resistant to scratching than most other watches.

Pricing and Options

The Hanhart Preventor HD12 is available in two dial colors, black and blue, both of which feature Super-LumiNova C1 lume on the hands and Arabic indices. The watch is powered by the Sellita SW200-1 automatic, a basic but solid Swiss-made movement.

Sizing is pretty perfect at 39mm across, 10.5mm thick and just 46mm lug to lug. The crown screws down for added security underwater and the crystal is sapphire with anti-reflective coating on the underside.

two hanhart watches next to each other on a desk — You can get either color of the Preventor on a hardened steel bracelet or an Alcantara-lined leather bund strap.

For straps, you have the option of a matching three-link stainless steel bracelet that’s been hardened to 1,000 Vickers (it’s not HD12, but it’s close) or a calfskin leather bund strap in one of three colors: black, light brown or dark brown. The straps are lined with Alcantara, and having recently worn a far more expensive watch that also had an Alcantara-lined leather strap, I can attest to the manmade material’s comfort against the skin.

The Preventor HD12 is priced at $1,160 or $1,370 with the bracelet. You can buy directly from Hanhart, which prices its watches in euros, or you can purchase from WatchBuys, a U.S.-based retailer of German watch brands.