This Overlooked Affordable Dive Watch Is Coming for Seiko’s Lunch Money

Seiko blew up the GMT landscape with the 5 Sports GMT and the NH35 movement, sold to other watchmakers, by drastically lowering the entry price for the previously bougie traveler’s complication.

GMT movements are everywhere in 2025, but when it comes to affordability and value, the entire industry is still trailing the Japanese masters.

Hamilton

That might change with the addition of the dual time zone complication to Hamilton’s Khaki Navy dive watch. A long-overlooked affordable option in the aquatic timekeeping market, incorporating a proven Swatch Group GMT movement could earn it overdue recognition.

The Kahki Navy Scuba GMT Automatic has the same 43mm case with 300m water resistance that was launched in 2021, with the familiar Kahaki Navy hands and applied dial markers. Along with the addition of a red GMT hand and 24-hour bezel track, it comes in two new color arrangements.

Hamilton

A steel case and bracelet version has a black ceramic bezel insert and a coarse, matte-textured, creamy white dial. Additionally, there is a bronze case and bezel frame with a black ceramic insert framing a matte black dial, complete with a black and gold nylon NATO strap.

The other king of affordable watches

Hamilton is often mentioned in the same breath as Seiko regarding the best entry-level mechanical watches and getting the best bang for your buck at any price tier.

Hamilton

While the two brands dominate the same horological niche, Seiko holds a significant advantage in the dive watch genre. The Japanese watchmaker has been the gold standard for affordable divers since the 1960s, while Hamilton’s stellar reputation is relegated to field and dress watches.

In 2021, Hamilton addressed the Khaki Navy’s reputation for poor aquatic performance with a 43mm Scuba variation that boasted a stout 300m water resistance and improved automatic movement at a bargain price of $1,125.

Hamilton

The new Khaki Navy Scuba Automatic GMT continues Hamilton’s improvement project by adding a “true” GMT complication and a couple of substantial aesthetic upgrades. While the geometry and spacing remain the same, each reference introduces new colors, textures and an alloy to the collection.

A “true” GMT

Seiko’s 5 Sports GMT holds a significant price advantage, retailing for half as much as the Khaki Navy Scuba Automatic GMT. However, the value just about breaks even when the differences in the movements and performance are considered.

Hamilton

The Seiko caliber 4R34 and NH35 GMT movements that revolutionized the market are both “caller” or “office” styles, meaning the GMT hand is set independently. This is useful for tracking alternate time zones while at home, but less useful for travel.

Hamilton outfitted the new Scuba GMT with the in-house caliber H-14, a minor variation on parent company Swatch Group’s Powermatic 80 GMT, which has a proven track record in other brands like Mido and Certina.

The caliber H-14 is a “true” GMT, meaning that the hour hand on the local time can be set independently in one-hour increments, and the GMT hand moves with the minute hand. This is optimized for travel because it quickly adjusts the local time, rather than the alternative time displayed by the GMT hand.

Hamilton

Considering that the new Scuba GMT is more preferable for travel and boasts triple the water resistance of the Seiko 5 Sports GMT, it is an equivalent bargain at double the price.

Add in the novelty of a bronze case for only an additional $150 and the backing of a reputation for great value, and Hamilton looks to be Seiko’s strongest competition in the GMT market.

Availability and pricing

The Hamilton Kahki Navy Scuba Automatic GMT is available now from Hamilton and authorized dealers for $1,395 for steel and $1,545 for bronze.

Hamilton

Hamilton Kahki Navy Scuba Automatic GMT

Specs

Case Size	43mm
Movement	Hamilton caliber H-14 automatic
Water Resistance	300m

• $1,395 at Hamilton

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