Patek Philippe’s New Calatrava Lineup Is Pure, Vintage Patek

The world’s finest watchmaker isn’t one to rest on its laurels. However, with over 180 years of experience under its belt, Patek Philippe can’t very well ignore the best of its back catalog.

Vintage models provide inspiration for some of the best of the modern Patek catalog, and the firm’s tentpole releases for Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022 — ref. 5226G-001 and ref. 5326G-001 — are no exception. Best of all, one of these includes an entirely new combination of complications.

Check out all our coverage from Watches & Wonders here.

The line recalls vintage Calatrava models

Patek Philippe

It isn’t hard to see where Patek Philippe seeks out inspiration. Just compare the new lineup to certain Calatrava models from the mid-20th century or pilot’s models from the 1930s.

Thick Arabic numerals coated liberally in lume, an outer minute/second track, highly visible syringe hands — this is pure Patek.

The maison also gave both these watches a dial color that itself looks decidedly vintage: charcoal grey and textured, modeled after heritage camera cases.

One of the watches combines a travel time complication with an annual calendar — a first for Patek

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe is well known for the “travel time” complication — one that typically makes use of two pushers to easily adjust the local time in two directions, while dual day-night indicators allow both local and home time to easily be read in 12-hour format.

In the 5236G-001, Patek has combined this functionality — controlled here via the crown — with that of an annual calendar, meaning we now have a traveler’s watch that also displays the day, date and month, and it only needs manual adjustment once per year.

This was no easy feat of engineering to achieve, but it’s made possible via the company’s in-house Caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement, an advanced mechanism that properly links the displayed date with the local time.

Both watches feature a Clous de Paris hobnail pattern on the case sides

Patek Philippe

The distinctive pyramidal structure of this pattern has featured on many a Calatrava in the past, but this is the first time it’s been integrated into the case flanks.

In fact, it extends around the entirety of the monocoque white gold case, meaning that the lugs had to be redesigned such that they’re part of the case back of each reference. (If you look closely, there’s actually a small gap between the lugs and the case.)

Each model ships with two straps

Patek Philippe

Both the time-and-date ref. 5226G-001 and the travel time/calendar ref. 5326G-001 ship with a beige calfskin nubuck strap with a hand-stitched edge as well as a black calfskin model embossed with a fabric pattern. Each has a fold-over clasp.

At a Glance (ref. 5226G-001)

Patek Philippe

Diameter: 40mm
Material: White gold
Movement: Patek Philippe 26‑330 S C automatic (5226G)
Water Resistance: 30m
Price: CHF 33,000

At a glance (ref. 5326G-001)

Patek Philippe

Diameter: 41mm
Material: White gold
Movement: Caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H automatic
Water Resistance: 30m
Price: CHF 65,000

Also notable …

Patek Philippe

Beyond the above, Patek dropped a gorgeous new lacquered green-dial 5270P perpetual calendar with a 41mm platinum case (CHF 179,000), an olive-green 5205R annual calendar in a 40mm white gold case (CHF 47,000), and an insanely beautiful, rose-gilt opaline version of the 40mm ref. 5230G — incredibly proportioned and comfortable, this is one of Patek’s best, most wearable perpetual calendars, full stop.

But if it’s more vintage-inspired Patek you’re after, feast your eyes on the new ref. 5230P-001 and the ref. 5231G-001. Both are descendants of Patek’s famed 1930s world timers, the difference being a blue, hand-guillochéd dial and a platinum case on the former, and a Grand Feu cloisonné enamel dial and a white gold case on the latter.

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