Watch Collecting 101: Expert Tips to Build Out Your Collection

Watches are expensive, and their technical nature can be hard to wrap one’s arms around. Here’s where to start.

Published September 14, 2024

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So, you want be a watch collector? You’re not alone. Despite technological and practical obsolescence, enthusiasm for wristwatches has never been higher.

But watches are expensive, and their technical nature can be hard to wrap one’s arms around, let alone your wrist. Here’s where to start.

1. Arm yourself with some basic watch knowledge

There’s a lot to learn about watches. Ease yourself in with some basic education.

Learn about the difference between quartz and mechanical watches, different types of watches and familiarize yourself with some of the major brands and iconic models that influence the rest of the industry.

2. Focus your horological interests

Before you blow your savings on the first timepiece that catches your eye, ask yourself exactly where your interest in watches lies.

For many collectors, the activity is a much more deliberate pursuit than simply amassing objects: each watch contributes to a coherent, harmonious whole — the collection.

This is often a stage that comes after years of collecting, so you don’t have to figure it out now. But you might want to begin with some focus in mind.

hand in pocket of pants wearing a watch — Many collectors begin with affordable Seiko dive watches.

Are you drawn to the icons? Are you interested in a certain brand or category? Do you want the latest thing, or are you more into vintage and history? Maybe you just want different styles of watches for sartorial reasons.

Even if you’re just generally enamored with watches, their design and technology, it’s helpful to consider these questions as you get started.

3. Visit watch boutiques and see watches in person

You can get an incredible amount of information online. But there’s nothing like feeling a watch, as a variety of factors influence how it wears.

Many brand today don’t even have a physical retail presence. No matter: whatever level of watch retail is available near you, go check it out and ask to try on some watches that catch your eye.

Odds are a friendly salesperson behind the counter will have plenty of knowledge to share with you.

4. Set a budget, make a plan

Sure, you could get all gung-ho and blow your savings on several watches at once. And you wouldn’t be the first to do so. But space out your first few purchases over a predetermined budget and period of time.

You might have, say, $500, $1,000 or $5,000 of discretionary funds to start with, or you might need to start saving to reach that budget. Everybody’s different, and the approval of your significant other is your own business.

Since collecting watches implies continuing to buy more of them, decide how often it makes sense to buy a new watch — and try to stick to it.

If you’re buying several watches in a month, you might want to slow down. A useful yardstick is how long it’ll take to replenish your new-watch fund.

5. Buy just one watch at a time

Yes, actually buying watches is what it’s all about, and the transactions can be exhilarating. But consider starting with just one watch, and slow your roll.

watch in watch box — Rather than buying a bunch of affordable watches, consider saving up for a grail.

This gives you a chance to live with the watch(es) you have before buying the next one. Every purchase is also a learning experience, so you might discover more about what you like and want based on that watch over time.

Moreover, there’s nothing wrong with something easy and affordable for getting your feet wet, but many collectors end up with multiple “compromise” watches — which together might have the value of your actual “grail.” There are some great affordable watches, but also think about the value of patience and saving up.

Pro tip: buy some straps. If you just got one watch, a few extra straps can give it more life, versatility and enjoyment. Straps are a joy in and of themselves and they can even make a single watch feel like a collection.

best leather watch straps gear patrol lead full — Changing straps can make a couple watches feel like a robust collection.

6. Make mistakes

Icons are fine — the hype around brands like Rolex might be what drew you to watches in the first place. In the end, though, a watch is mostly for your own enjoyment (unfortunately, not as many people will probably notice your new watch as you might hope).

The watch you choose is ultimately up to you, of course, but if you want some suggestions, here are plenty.

At the end of the day, know that you’ll probably make a few mistakes. And rest assured, you can always flip a what-was-I-thinking watch to fund your next obsession. It’s all part of the journey — and this is only the beginning.