A Fan-Favorite Affordable Watch Just Added a Big Upgrade at No Extra Cost

They can’t keep getting away with this.

closeup of a blue Christopher Ward watchChristopher Ward

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If I didn’t like their watches so much, I’d probably be sick of hearing about Christopher Ward by now.

The 20-year-old British independent brand has been on an incredible hot streak over the past two years thanks to a continuous hit parade of releases from the chiming Bel Canto in 2022 to the cheeky (and sold-out) Desk Diver collab with seconde-seconde just last week.

But arguably the brand’s greatest recent achievement was its introduction of the Twelve last year. An integrated sports watch with a level of finishing and detail previously unseen at its ~$1,000 price point, the Twelve quickly became the brand’s de facto flagship and has since expanded to offer a broad array of sizes, colors and materials (the CW site lists 42 references on the Twelve’s product page).

Now, Christopher Ward has made yet another update to the Twelve, and it’s one that vastly improves the watch but, shockingly, won’t cost you any extra money.

christopher ward the twelve watch
The Twelve was already one of the best values in the watch industry. It just got better.
Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

In Need of an Adjustment

Earlier this year, CW introduced the Twelve X, a titanium, skeletonized version of the watch powered by the brand’s in-house Calibre SH21 automatic movement. At $4,865, the Twelve X is nearly more than four times the cost of a stainless steel Twelve on a bracelet, and more than double the price of a Sellita-powered titanium Twelve chronometer.

The higher price of the Twelve X is largely due to its use of an in-house movement and the more intricate finishing requirements of its skeletonized dial, but the watch also introduced some new technology to the Twelve. Namely, it features an innovative butterfly clasp that offers on-the-fly micro-adjustability, a feature strikingly similar to the one seen on the clasp of the $25,000 Vacheron Constantin Overseas.

christopher ward bracelet clasp
The butterfly clasp of the Twelve X features the kind of micro-adjustability previously only seen on very high-end luxury watches.
Christopher Ward

The clasp is very simple to operate: You just pull hard on either side of it to get either 1.5 or 3mm of extra room in the bracelet, allowing you to adjust your comfort level as your wrist shrinks and swells throughout the day.

This type of feature has become standard in the luxury watch industry for folding bracelet clasps such as Rolex’s Glidelock system, but it’s far rarer to see this kind of mechanism in a butterfly clasp, with the aforementioned Vacheron ranking as the market’s most notable.

The clasp was a key, if underreported, feature of the Twelve X, but it didn’t take long to pop up again. Last month, when CW introduced the first 38mm Twelve iterations with the limited-edition “Ice Cream” models in stainless steel, the brand also quietly included the micro-adjustable clasp from the Twelve X.

Now, as of yesterday, the brand has fully rolled out the micro-adjustable clasp on every model of the Twelve.

That’s right. From now on, whether you order a steel or titanium Twelve in 36 or 40mm, as long as you order it on the bracelet and not on the rubber strap, you’re going to get a butterfly clasp with up to 3mm of micro-adjustability.

Perhaps the best part of all is CW didn’t raise its prices. The Twelve costs the same today as when it launched last June, even though you’re getting a new feature that’s most commonly associated with a $25,000 watch. And with the Twelve in stainless steel starting at just $1,225 on a bracelet, we’re talking about value that’s basically unheard of in the watch industry.

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