The Best Affordable Sports Watch Just Got Even Better (for No Extra Cost)

Christopher Ward heeded the call for a third, “Goldilocks sized” The Twelve.

the bezel and case of a steel watch with a blue dial

Published February 20, 2025

·

Updated February 20, 2025

Every product is carefully selected by our editors. If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. Learn more

Watch enthusiasts are a picky bunch. They can take issue with minute details on the best designs, like claiming, for example, that Christopher Ward’s The Twelve’s 40mm case size is too big and that the 36mm is too small.

Well, the much-adored Twelve now comes in a 38-millimeter “Goldilocks” case. This brilliant move demonstrates that Christopher Ward hears and appreciates its fans. Few watch brands make the same design in three sizes, no matter how many people ask for it.

a steel watch on a man's wrist — The new 38-millimeter The Twelve sits perfectly on most wrists.

However, it also aligns with an industry trend toward smaller case sizes that has ebbed and flowed but held steady over the past decade. The 36mm to 38mm range popular during the mid-twentieth century appears to be the standard to which watchmaking eventually always returns.

A case for the Goldilocks case

Christopher Ward ran what could be considered a beta test for the 38mm Twelve in 2024 when it released the limited edition “Ice Cream Collection.” The playful pastel-colored dials and bands contributed to the collection’s success, but so did the case size.

a steel watch with a blue dial — The Twelve’s dial and case remain perfectly balanced at a smaller size.

A consensus was reached among fans that 38mm was the perfect width for The Twelve’s angular steel case. It sits comfortably on most wrists and invokes the dimensions of popular vintage watches from the mid-twentieth century.

Along with simply complementing most wrist sizes, history has much to do with why watch fans keep returning to the 36mm to 38mm case range.

christopher ward the twelve on wrist by water — The existing 40-millimeter The Twelve modeled by Gear Patrol’s Johnny Brayson.

Horological design had a golden age from the 1950s through the 1970s, and the watches created during that period have stood as a reference point ever since. In fact, The Twelve is heavily influenced by Gerald Genta’s work during the early 1970s.

the exhibition case back of a steel watch, which displays the movement — The Twelve comes with a sapphire crystal exhibition case back.

Sub-40mm cases were the norm back then. So, along with all the other design elements that have carried forward, smaller case sizes will always be the precedent that fans desire, no matter how often brands go big.

An affordable homage

As mentioned above, The Twelve pays homage to Gerald Genta, arguably the most influential watch designer of the modern age. In particular, it traces the case and bezel of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

Christopher Ward put in the work to make The Twelve its own design, and the success that the watch has enjoyed speaks for itself. More than any other offering, it has elevated the British watchmaker above the “microbrand” crowd and garnered the respect of a true watch brand.

the bezel and dial of a steel watch with a blue dial — The Twelve’s integrated bracelet, angular case and twelve-sided bezel are nods to Gerald Genta.

One element that stands out as defining The Twelve is the dial texture. It consists of interlocking cross-shaped pyramids referencing the brand’s nautical flag logo. It is meant to emulate a flag bearing the brand logo “pulsing” in the wind.

Availability and pricing

The Twelve from Christopher Ward is now available in a 38mm case in addition to the existing 36mm and 40mm options. Navy blue, ice blue and white dials are available across all three sizes; the 38mm variant also comes in a golden color called Midnight Sun.

The new case size costs $1,225 when purchased with a steel bracelet and $995 with a rubber strap. Both prices match those of the 40mm option. Unlike the “Ice Cream Collection,” this Goldilocks case is a permanent addition to Christopher Ward’s lineup.