The Decade’s Most Anticipated Dive Watch Was Worth the Wait and Then Some

After teasing with a luxed-out version earlier this month, Blancpain is finally releasing the Fifty Fathoms fans have been waiting for.

a Blancpain dive watch on a diver's wrist

By Brad Lanphear

Published 5 hours ago

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Blancpain pulled a fast one. But I really can’t complain.

Less than a week ago, the original dive watch was revealed in a much-anticipated 38mm case size for the first time. The catch was that it was only offered in two luxuriously over-the-top iterations marketed to women.

a black Blancpain dive watch — The 38mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique is now available in steel, titanium and 18-karat red gold.

As it turns out, that first release was just the appetizer for the pièce de résistance: a fully fleshed-out 38mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique line.

My criticism of Blancpain for not releasing a steel 38mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique now reads as impatience, but it was well worth the wait.

The new assortment of blue and black dials in steel, titanium, and 18-karat red gold cases represents the ultimate evolution of the original dive watch in terms of the watch market’s current state.

a black Blancpain dive watch on a man's wrist — The 38mm case size makes the original dive watch more wearable than ever.

After 72 years, the original and arguably most iconic dive watch is more wearable than ever in its new 38mm form. Setting aside the merits of a larger case for actual diving, this “Goldilocks” size is the most comfortable and accommodating for daily wear.

Diver down(sized)

When Blancpain introduced the Fifty Fathoms, named after the maximum recommended diving depth at the time, it had a 42mm case and a less refined dial than the current generation.

a pair of Blancpain dive watches — The initially released pearl dial 38mm (left) next to the standard steel version (right), revealed less than a week later.

After going through multiple variations, Blancpain introduced the standardized Fifty Fathoms Automatique in 2008. It was an aesthetic evolution of the original design, with the only major visual update being the quill-shaped hands.

The cyclical nature of watch case preference was at its zenith in the 2000s, leading Blancpain to supersize the initial Fifty Fathoms Automatique with a 45mm case. Despite the current taste for smaller cases, this behemoth of the deep is still available.

three dive watches of different sizes on a tray together — All three current sizes of the Fifty Fathoms Automatique lined up.

It wasn’t until 2023, when a limited edition model marking the Fifty Fathom’s 70th anniversary was released, that the iconic diver reverted to its original 42mm size.

a black dive watch on a diver's wrist — The smaller case does not compromise legibility above or below water.

More 42mm options followed, including a relatively affordable (re: $18,000) steel reference released in 2025. Given how long it took for Blancpain to descend back to the Fifty Fathom’s starting point, a sub-40mm case seemed like nothing more than a daydream earlier this year.

Hitting the water swimming

Starting at the most affordable end of the new 38mm Fifty Fathoms line, the steel case only comes in a black radial sunburst dial with a black uni-directional curved sapphire dive bezel.

It is available with a black nylon NATO strap, black two-piece fabric strap with rubber backing, a rubber tropical pin-buckle strap or three-link steel folding clasp bracelet.

a Blancpain dive watch — The blue dial is available in 18-karat red gold.

The more desirable metals are only available in the blue radial sunburst dial with a matching blue curved sapphire crystal dive bezel. A titanium case is available with the same strap assortment as the steel, but in corresponding blue with titanium hardware.

Moving up the line, my personal favorite is the 18-karat red gold case with a blue radial dial and sapphire crystal dive bezel. I think that it looks best with the blue nylon NATO strap, but it is also available with the blue rubber tropical strap and two-piece fabric strap. Each one comes with 18-karat gold hardware.

As watch case sizes gradually shrank over the past decade, it felt like Blancpain would always hold out and remain dedicated to the Fifty Fathom’s original large format. Just getting back to 42mm felt like a win for dive watch enthusiasts.

I, for one, thought a 38mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique was the ultimate watch that made perfect sense, but would never happen. Now that it is here, it could very well supplant the Rolex Submariner’s decades of dominance atop the dive watch category.

Availability and pricing

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 38mm is available now in the classic blue and black dials with steel, titanium and 18-karat red gold.

Strap options include a three-link folding clasp bracelet, a two-piece fabric pin-buckle strap, a tropical rubber strap and a nylon NATO strap.

Including the luxurious mother-of-pearl dials, 15 Fifty Fathoms Automatique references are now available.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm

Specs

Case Size	38mm
Movement	Blancpain caliber 1150 automatic
Water Resistance	300m

$19,500 at Blancpain

About the Author: Brad Lanphear is an associate editor at Gear Patrol covering watches and style. Before joining the publication, he previously wrote for Heddels and Men’s Health. Now, he’s on a never-ending quest to find the perfect pair of Japanese denim.