The Father of All Dive Watches Is Now More Wearable Than Ever

Blancpain invented the dive watch with the original Fifty Fathoms, introduced in 1953 with a 42mm steel case.

Since then, Blancpain has resolutely kept its iconic dive watch in the 44mm to 42mm range, only recently straying into 40mm territory. But the winds of change blow steadily like the Trade Winds, and watch cases are invariably getting smaller.

Blancpain

Blancpain finally bent to the will of the people, downsizing the Fifty Fathoms to a 38mm case, but there’s a catch.

The most wearable Fifty Fathoms yet is luxuriously appointed (re: expensive) and, from a marketing position at least, meant for women. This is suggested in the pink and white reference for a titanium case and spelled out in the marketing copy.

But I assure you that the black and 18-karat rose gold reference with a mother-of-pearl dial and choice of three black dive-friendly straps is perfectly suited for any gentleman’s wrist.

Blancpain

Going for almost double the cost of the new 42mm steel model released earlier this year, which I touted as the most affordable modern Fifty Fathoms at $15,500, makes this a bittersweet, almost mocking offering for narrow-wristed gentlemen, like myself.

Mother of pearl!

Bancpain can’t be accused of half-heartedly introducing the smallest Fifty Fathoms ever produced. Both references are tastefully over-the-top, even by the Swiss watchmaker’s luxury standards.

Blancpain

The black version features the same case, bezel, and dial design that have been in service since 2008, if scaled down slightly. However, the case is solid 18-karat red gold, and the hands and indices are plated in the same precious metal.

On both references, the dial is made for mother-of-pearl with a dégradé shadowing effect that fades inward from the chapter ring. It is a smoky gray on the black model and pink on the pink model.

Blancpain

Under the hood, the new 38mm case requires a different movement than recent Fifty Fathoms releases. Blancpain chose the in-house caliber 1153 automatic movement with an impressive 100-hour power reserve.

Watches for the people!

Not to stand on a soap box or anything, but advertising a 38mm watch as specifically designed for women in the twenty-first century is both passé and bad marketing.

Blancpain

As the watch market stands in the summer of 2025, 38mm is the median size for new releases. If anything, Blancpain is just now catching up to the trend of how gentlemen prefer their cases.

At the same time, most watch companies are astutely marketing all of their watches to both men and women, especially in the luxury market. And that isn’t progressive, it is a response to how watches have been worn for decades.

The new black and gold 38mm Fifty Fathoms is one of the best-looking luxury dive watches I’ve ever seen because it applies precious materials to an iconic design without disrupting the existing aesthetic.

Blancpain

Meanwhile, the pink and white version looks like a serious build of a Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms, a desirable concept regardless of gender.

Both of the new 38mm Fifty Fathoms references are stunning additions to the notoriously sparse collection. I don’t think I’m alone in hoping that more 38mm models will follow, hopefully in more attainable steel builds.

Availability and pricing

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm is currently only available for purchase at Blancpain boutiques worldwide.

The price is dependent on which strap is chosen. It costs $34,600 with a tropical rubber or sail cloth strap with folding clasps, or $31,400 with a nylon NATO strap.

Blancpain

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm

Specs

Case Size	38mm
Movement	Blancpain caliber 1153 automatic
Water Resistance	300m

• $31,400 at Blancpain

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