The Best Beginner Seiko Watches for Collectors New and Old

By all accounts, Seiko is one of the best brands around which to build one’s watch collection. The Japanese watchmaker is renowned for its variety, heritage and, best of all, budget-friendly prices.

Seiko has two factors going for it that keep prices affordable and make every model a great bang for your buck.

First, it is a vertically integrated company, which means that every single step of design and production is done in-house. By contrast, many microbrands — and even some mainstream brands — source Seiko movements for their timepieces.

Photo by Hunter Kelley for Gear Patrol

Secondly, Seiko is an absolute behemoth. It is among the industry leaders for annual units sold worldwide. And thanks to economics of scale, Seiko can afford to sell higher-quality watches for cheaper than the competition.

But what really makes it a go-to brand for collectors old and new is the sheer variety of timepieces on offer.

Want a dive watch with a history as rich as the Submariner? Or a field watch with bonafides to match the Hamilton Khaki? How about the most approachable GMT on the market right now?

Whatever your speed, just be advised: buying Seiko watches is known to be an addictive pastime. The odds are high that your first Seiko watch won’t be your last.

A Durable All-Rounder

Seiko

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK033

• $475 at Huckberry

Seiko’s 5 Sports line includes a wide range of automatic tool watches. The newest addition is the GMT, which is a complication added to the diver model. Highlights include a large GMT hand, easy-to-read twenty-four-hour bezel markings and a swanky jubilee steel bracelet.

The case and dial design date back to the fan-favorite SKX line of dive watches from the 1990s. It was effectively folded into the 5 Sports line and given a facelift in the 2010s, meaning this relatively new watch has a rich design history.

Something on the Dressier Side

Seiko

Seiko Presage SRPB43

• $425 at Seiko

Most of Seiko’s dress watches fall under the brand’s Presage line. It includes a particular group of watches that are affectionately known as the “cocktail time.” Shared design elements include pointed indices on an otherwise clean dial, beveled dauphine hands and a seconds hand shaped like a sewing needle.

On this version, a domed Hardlex crystal and a pressed starburst dial combine to shimmer when the light hits it just right. Besides looking absolutely classic, the Cocktail Time has a thin profile that fits comfortably under dress shirts and suit jacket cuffs.

A Classic Diver

Seiko

Seiko Prospex SRPE99

• $550 at Huckberry

Seiko introduced the so-called “Turtle” in 1976. Updates have been made to the movement and naming scheme since then, but the look has remained relatively unchanged. As you can guess, the moniker comes from the turtle shell shape of the steel case and the watch’s adeptness underwater.

“PADI” stamped on the dial stands for Professional Association of Diving Instructors, which has endorsed the SRPE99 since 2016. A time-tested 200m dive rating has outperformed watches well over the $1,000 mark.

A Legendary Field Watch

Seiko

Seiko Alpinist SPB155

• $725 at Seiko

Rather than taking design cues from military-spec watches like many field watches, the Seiko Alpinist follows a mountaineering tradition similar to the Rolex Explorer. Cathedral hands and the alternating triangle and Arabic numeral indices define the signature look.

Multiple iterations have come and gone, but the current 38mm SPB155 might be the best take yet. Notably, Seiko removed the inset rotating compass bezel from the original larger design for this smaller version. It was a neat feature, but the removal was aesthetic addition by subtraction.

A stainless steel case, sapphire crystal and screw-down crown outfit this ticker for adventure. But the elegant dial makes it more useful as a versatile everyday watch. Plus, you just don’t see green dials pulled off this well very often.

A Vintage-Inspired Update

Seiko

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC947

• $618 at Amazon
  $700 (12% off)

Seiko debuted the Speedtimer as one of the first automatic chronographs in 1969 alongside efforts from TAG Heuer and Zenith.

Originally sporting a single sub-dial, the current model has a more common set of three. Automatic movement variations are still available, but the solar-powered quartz version here is far more affordable.

For a taste of horological history, you can pick up the special edition Prospex Speedtimer SSC947. The yellow dial and “Pepsi” bezel come from a fan-favorite color scheme from the mid-1970s known as “The Pogue,” named after a NASA astronaut who wore the watch in orbit, making it the first automatic chronograph in space.

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