Watches and Wonders: 45 New Watches You Missed from Grand Seiko, TAG Heuer and More

The first model to house a Spring Drive UFA movement, Grand Seiko’s most accurate automatic watch boasts an accuracy of +/-20 seconds per year — along with the brand’s first ever bracelet with an on-the-fly micro-adjust clasp.

The Land-Dweller marks the start of a new era for Rolex in more ways than one. Most obvious is that it’s the brand’s first watch with an integrated bracelet since the discontinuation of the Oysterflex over two decades ago. That fact alone would be significant enough to warrant the title of Rolex’s most important watch in decades, but sweetening the pot is a new movement with the all-new Dynapulse escapement — a revolutionary mechanism which represents The Crown’s biggest movement innovation in nearly a century.

Tudor’s Pelagos was already the brand’s top-of-the-line diver, but the Pelagos Ultra sets an extreme new performance standard for the brand. The Ultra features more titanium in its slightly larger 43mm case, eschewing steel entirely for a mix of Grade 2 and Grade 5 titanium. Its manufacture movement is METAS certified, it features bi-color lume on the hands and bezel for heightened visibility, its dial is cleaner to improve legibility, and most impressive of all, its depth rating is 1,000m — double the rating of the standard Pelagos

After years of hype and scorn on the vintage market, TAG Heuer revives the original Formula 1 line with much-improved specs. It has a 38mm case and runs on a solar-powered quartz movement. The collection includes nine watches in total, six of which are limited-edition — set to release major races in the 2025 Formula 1 season.

Oris’s signature Big Crown Pointer Date gets an earthy update with two new colors, a leafy green and terracotta orange. The definitive central date hand corresponds to a 31-day railroad track along the outside rim of the dial. The Calibre 403, outfitted with an in-house automatic movement, features a small second hand at six o’clock with a railroad track that matches the date register. It is available with a sporty new steel H-link bracelet or a brown deer leather pin-buckle strap.

This 44-millimeter dive watch places the Paneri’s unmistakable, gorgeously minimalist dial in its most durable case ever. The Italian watchmaker engineered a new stainless steel alloy, blending iron, chromium, nickel and molybdenum with a special melting and purifying process to maximize strength and corrosion resistance. It is incorporated into the case and in a new V-shaped bracelet design, which introduces Paneri’s tool-free Quick Length adjustment system, offering a 2-millimeter range on both sides of the clasp.

Zenith revives its award-winning caliber 135 movement for a 160th-anniversary watch that is limited to 160 pieces. The dial is a genuine work of art, combining a brick guilloche pattern, lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl, framed in a platinum case. The hand-wound movement beats at 18,000 VpH with a 72-hour power reserve.

Ressence’s most advanced tool watch combines the brand’s two main signatures — its mesmerizing ROCS movement and distortion-free oil-filled dial — with a Grade 5 titanium integrated bracelet and GMT complication.

The lightest mechanical dive watch ever made, the Diver Air features a heavily skeletonized movement made of titanium and silicon and a case that combines titanium, carbon fiber and recycled fishing nets.

Named after the RAF’s first fighter jet, the MB Meteor is the most advanced evolution of Bremont’s toughest pilot’s watch. The shock-resistant, anti-magnetic Trip-Tick titanium case system has been slimmed down from the original version without compromising its effectiveness, and the inner rotating bezel is smoother and more precise with added clicks. It runs on a La Joux-Perret automatic movement and features a refined dial full of aviation Easter eggs.

Patek Philippe has introduced two new references to the Cubitus collection in a more manageable 40-millimeter size, down from the 45-millimeter case that debuted in 2024. Available in white gold and rose gold, they are the first two precious metal offerings in the collection. Technically, at 8.5mm thin, these 40mm references are also slightly thicker than their 45mm counterparts, which measure 8.3mm thin. It runs on a Patek Philippe caliber 26‑330 S C/434 automatic movement, visible through an exhibition case back.

The most advanced addition to the sporty Nomos Club line, the Neomatic Worldtimer is also one of the most unique interpretations of the timezone-spanning complication. A home time is set on the 24-hour sub-dial at three o’clock, and the pusher at two o’clock moves the central hands to the time at the city indicated at 12 o’clock. Typical to the Club line, the case is only 10 millimeters thick and has a 100-meter dive rating. It is available in a silver or blue dial, with six additional dial colors available in a limited edition of 175 pieces each.

Bulgari’s insatiable pursuit of thinness continues with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch. The brand managed to squeeze a skeletonized tourbillon movement into the insanely thin Octo Finissimo titanium case, resulting in a watch that measures just 1.85mm thick. The watch marks Bulagari’s tenth world record in watch thinness.

IWC updated one of its most beloved case designs with a black zirconium oxide ceramic. Even smaller parts like the crown and the crown protection are engineered from this extremely hard and scratch-resistant material. The automatic movement is contained within a titanium layer that accommodates the exhibition case back screws. With anti-reflective sapphire crystal and 100-meter water resistance, this is one of IWC’s toughest sports watches.

First released in 1928, the Tank à Guichets was the second most coveted discontinued Cartier watch after the Crash. It is back in production with a special crown placement at 12 o’clock, a feature only found on the original reference and a handful of limited edition releases. The brushed finish, squared-off case, and jump time dial epitomize Art Deco modernism from the 1930s. Three regular production models are available in yellow gold, rose gold and platinum with the time displays centered. A 200-piece limited edition platinum reference has the hour skewed to the top left corner and the minutes track skewed to the lower right corner.

Boasting an astounding 41 complications and a 72-hour power reserve when fully wound, the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication is nothing short of mind-blowing. Along with the local time, it has a second time zone and a world time, each regulated by a tourbillon. A perpetual calendar provides eight different measurements, including day of the month, day of the week, date, year, month and week of the year. It indicates moon phases and tidal phases. There are 14 astronomical indications, including sunrise and sunset, both solstices, sunset time and the zodiac. A split-second chronograph and power reserve indicator are also included.

Chopard’s Alpine Eagle collection is fast becoming one of the most diverse sports watch lineups of any brand, and the third iteration of its Cadence 8HF variation is its most distinct yet. Like the two previous versions, the third generation features a high-frequency automatic movement beating at a screaming 8Hz and a titanium case, but that’s about where the similarities end. The titanium case has now been ceramicized, resulting in a tougher material nearly impervious to scratches. The crown, dial and movement are also made of the same material, helping to make this Chopard’s lightest watch ever. The line’s signature “eagle iris” dial pattern remains, here executed in “Pitch Black” and accompanied by bright orange accents. An integrated rubber strap in matte black to match the bead-blasted case completes the stealthy look.

Frederick Constant released its first perpetual calendar in 2016 with a 42mm case and a friendly price of under $8,000. After nine years of service, the Swiss watchmaker updated the Perpetual Calendar Manufacture with a 40mm case, following the industry trend toward smaller cases. For such a complex complication, a shrunken case requires a completely new movement, which comes in the form of the in-house caliber FC-776. It has 203 individual parts to support day, date, month, year and moon phase dial registers, along with a 72-hour power reserve. The dial sports a light redesign with a salmon-colored radial sunray brush texture, polished Dauphine hands and pointed applied indices. It comes on a brown genuine crocodile leather strap with a pin-buckle.

Few brands exude quiet luxury like Grand Seiko, where Zaratsu polishing and subtly textured dials give its watches an understated elegance. That makes the new Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009 even more notable. Powered by Grand Seiko’s 9SC5 caliber, the watch distinguishes itself with its angular case (first seen on the SBGA403 from 2019) and unique dial pattern and color — a trio of inspired by the mane of a lion.

H. Moser & Cie. manages to merge watchmaking’s two hottest trends in 2025 — bright colors and natural stone dials — into one stunning collection. The Pop Collection features pairings of six different brightly colored stones in a trio of complications on its Endeavour dress watch: small seconds, tourbillon, and tourbillon minute repeater. All will grab your attention, but the Tourbillon makes the best use of its colors, thanks to a ring around the dial that’s broken up by the tourbillon window. Seen here with a tourquise dial holding a cut coral ring, the stunning use of color stands in sharp contrast to the complex movement of the tourbillon, creating a watch with maximum visual interest despite its otherwise minimalist leanings.

Part of Hublot’s wide-ranging collection of watches celebrating the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang, this version of the brand’s Unico chronograph boasts a 42mm case in mint green ceramic and a rubber strap equipped with the brand’s superb One-Click quick-exchange system. It’s the first Hublot watch to feature ceramic in this shade of mint green, with the fetching color perfectly matched on the skeletonized dial, hands, rubber strap and even on the clasp’s Hublot wordmark. The watch is, in a word, “fresh.”

In 2023, IWC generated some buzz when it launched the Ingenieur Automatic 40, an updated take on Gérald Genta’s iconic integrated sports watch design. Only available in time-and-date configurations with stainless steel or titanium cases, the Ingenieuer receives a major expansion in 2025 with new sizes, new materials, new dial colors and new complications. The entire line is intriguing, but the standout is arguably this 35mm version in 5N rose gold. The combination of the more compact case size with the luxe material makes this the classiest Ingenieur yet, and the matching gold dial and sapphire caseback only add to its charms.

The most elegant presentation of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Tribute dial, which is based on the dial of the first Reverso from 1931, is the Monoface in full 18-karat pink gold. The case, grained dial, applied hour markers, hands and Milanese mesh bracelet are all made from the rose-hued precious metal. True to the original design, the reverse side is a flat plate ideal for personalized engraving. The strikingly thin 7.5mm thick case holds an in-house hand-wound movement that beats at 21,600 vibrations per minute.

This smaller version of Norqain’s flagship sports watch is just as rugged as its big brother but is three mm smaller across the case and even lighter at 64 grams, meaning it’s better suited to a wider variety of wrists. The complex 25-part case is made primarily from Norteq, the brand’s proprietary carbon fiber composite, and features a BIWI-made rubber shock absorber and titanium movement holder for heightened protection. Like the original Wild One Skeleton, the 39 is available in a range of fun, bright colors, including Sky Blue, Hyper Pink, Purple Ice Blue and Mint.

Parmigiani’s new perpetual calendar is yet another masterclass from the brand on the complementary relationship between luxury and minimalism. And like all members of the Toric collection, it’s also a showcase of the aesthetic power of the famed golden ratio. The new QP boils down an often chaotic-looking complication to a clean and crisp coaxial display. One subdial shares the day and date, and the other shows the month and leap years. Though the rose gold iteration of this piece is beautiful in its own right, the brand’s riff on a traditional watchmaking marriage — a pale blue dial paired with a platinum case and 18ct gold rhodium-plated indices — is most likely to garner coos of appreciation from anyone who spies it. And that’s even before knowing it’s limited to only 50 pieces, each one costing a cool $99,400.

For several reasons, the Calatrava 6196P will go down as one of the best releases in Patek’s entry-level line in years. The most obvious perk is a new rose-gilt opaline dial that looks warm, rich, and timeless – which is also a very on-trend look right now. The color’s particularly mesmerizing to see in person, given how it fluctuates between salmon and gold tones depending on the lighting. As with the 6119G/R launched in 2021, the 6169P’s embrace of the Caliber 30‑255 PS manually wound movement likewise brings balance to the time-only dress watch in two critical ways. Since it’s nearly 9mm wider than the Caliber 215 PS movement used in the outgoing Calatrava 5196, it’s a much better proportional fit for the piece’s 38mm platinum case. The new movement also outwardly corrects the awkward positioning of the sub-seconds dial that spoiled the previous ref. 5196 Calatrava for many Patek perfectionists. Together, the changes go a long way to modernizing Calatrava’s watchmaking chops while aesthetically grounding it to the dress watch lines’ rich heritage – setting the 6169P to be a future classic.

In 2024, Piaget resurrected one of the most recognizable watches of the 1980s with the Polo 79. Constructed entirely of yellow gold and covered all over in its signature gadroons, the monochrome stunner brought some ’80s glam to the 21st century. For 2025, Piaget doubles down on the Polo 79 with a reissue of the far rarer white gold version, offering up a more versatile and less ostentatious take on the classic integrated sports watch. Swapping out yellow-gold everything for white-gold everything, the fairer Polo 79 is otherwise the same watch as its shiny predecessor, right down to the Piaget Cal. 1200P1 automatic movement that powers the watch.

When Tudor first released the Black Bay Pro in 2022, watch enthusiasts were quick to point out its similarities to the Explorer II from sister brand Rolex — a comparison that only gets stronger with the release of a new variant with a highly legible opaline dial. That said, the Black Bay Pro certainly stands on its own, thanks to the in-house MT5652 movement, 70 hour of power reserve and 200 meters of water resistance. What’s more, it arrives in an easy-to-wear 39mm size, which hasn’t featured on the Explorer II since the 1980s.

Vacheron Constantin celebrates 270 years of uninterrupted watchmaking in 2025, making it the longest continually operating watch brand in the world. To mark the occasion, the brand has launched several special-edition watches, but none classier than this anniversary edition of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding dress watch. Housed inside a 38mm 950 platinum case is a silver dial featuring a textured, stylized pattern of VC’s Maltese cross logo, giving the watch a subtle yet visually interesting character. White gold dauphine hands and applied indices add further opulence, while a gray stitched alligator leather strap brings everything together beautifully.

In celebration of its 160th anniversary, Zenith is releasing three El Premiro-powered chronographs made from specially designed ceramic in the brand’s signature radial blue. Creating such a specific colored ceramic is challenging, but the reward is that it can be finished with the same brushing and polishing techniques that Zenith uses for metal cases. The star of the collection, pun intended, is the Chronomaster Sport 16th Anniversary. The brand’s most coveted design is available in blue ceramic for the first time, complete with a matching ceramic three-link bracelet. The blue lacquered dial sports the signature tir-color overlapping dials, rhodium-plated hands and hour markers and a star counter-balance on the central seconds hand. All three watches in the collection are limited to 160 pieces each and can be purchased individually or in an anniversary box set.

At 34mm in diameter, this is the smallest A. Lange & Söhne 1815 ever produced. The rose gold case, blue-colored 925 silver dial and classical small seconds layout exhibit the German watchmaker’s esteemed craftsmanship in a modest fashion. It runs on an in-house hand-wound movement and comes on a genuine alligator leather strap with an 18k gold pin buckle.

A seriously faithful reissue of an Alpina sports watch from the 1960s which was originally made to be humidity-proof and intended for tropical explorers, the reborn Tropic-Proof maintains its predecessor’s 34mm case size, hand-wound movement and vintage good looks. Modern updates include a box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and a soft and comfortable Alcantara strap.

For the first time, Bell & Ross is offering the BR-05’s signature airplane instrument panel design in a 36mm case. This is the most wearable version of the fan-favorite integrated bracelet sports watch, especially for men with smaller wrists. The simple glossy black dial with tall applied white lume indices, which match the hands with rounded steel framing, is an incredibly versatile application of the brand’s distinct design language.

Bremont’s most sophisticated and ambitious design is a titanium pilot’s watch with a sporty presentation of a perpetual calendar and GMT on one dial. Powered by a hand-wound movement, it displays a second time zone at 12 o’clock, the month and leap year cycle at three o’clock, the date at six o’clock and running seconds at nine o’clock. This watch is made to order, with a 10 to 12-month lead time, and is limited to 150 pieces.

The quintessential Cartier Tank, now named after the man himself and modeled after his 1917 Tank Normale design, is presented in an imposing, scaled-up form to accommodate a new automatic movement. At 38mm long, 28mm wide and 8mm thick, it is 4mm longer, 2mm wider and 2mm thicker than the large model hand-wound Louis Cartier. It is available in yellow gold with a gray alligator strap and rose gold with a brown alligator strap.

Chopard marks 25 years of its Quattro technology — which comprises dual stacks of twin mainspring barrels resulting in an impressive 9-day power reserve — with this refined L.U.C. dress watch. Encased in platinum and boasting a light-blue dial with a frosted texture and uniquely adorned dauphine hands, this dress watch has the gorgeous exterior to match its impressive COSC-certified and Geneva-Sealed internals.

The second iteration of Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 Tentagraph comes with a snowy blue dial inspired by Japan’s Mt. Iwate in winter. It runs on the caliber 9SC5 Hi-Beat mechanical chronograph movement with a 72-hour power reserve, the best of any mechanical chronograph. The case and bracelet are made of Grand Seiko’s proprietary High-Intensity Titanium.

One of the most unique and impressive chronographs on the market, the Streamliner Flyback gets a sparkling makeover thanks to a “Frozen” dial treatment featuring a stamped texture and a frosted fumé finish that plays with the light in endless ways. The Midnight Blue dial features racing-inspired details and is housed inside a 5N red gold case and paired with an integrated black rubber strap, while the automatic chronograph movement boasts both a central minutes counter and a flyback function.

A handcrafted creation of just 24 total pieces, the Hermès Arceau 18-3-7 features a dial unlike any other in watchmaking. Made up of individual pieces of leather, the marquetry dial depicts a scene of three racing jockeys bearing the numbers 18, 3 and 7, symbolizing the year in which the maison was founded.

An evolution of Montblanc’s flagship dive watch, this version clocks in at a smaller 38mm case size while still ticking every box and then some. It’s equipped with 0 Oxygen technology to ensure a fog-free dial and prevent oxidization of the movement, ISO standard 642 diver’s certification, a ceramic bezel and an adventurous glacier-pattenerd dial.

One of the most impressive watches Panerai has ever created, this souped-up Luminor combines perpetual calendar and GMT complications in an anti-shock, 55-jewel, automatic movement powered by a gold micro rotor. The case is crafted from Platinumtech, Panerai’s extra-hard platinum alloy, while the dial is a disc of transparent blue sapphire that gives a glimpse into the watch’s inner workings.

A sporty twist on one of the most iconic dress watches of all time, Patek’s Calatrava ref. 5328G debuts a new manually wound movement offering 8 days of power and instantaneously jumping day and date functions. The 41mm case is in white gold and is paired with a grain-textured gradient blue dial and a stitched canvas-effect calfskin strap.

The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph was already Parmigiani Fleurier’s sportiest watch, but the Ultra Cermet version takes the elegant brand into even sportier territory. This version of the automatic chronograph is the first watch in the world with a case, bezel, crown, pushers and clasp entirely crafted from Cermet, a composite of ceramic and titanium that combines the best attributes of both materials with a unique and stunning luster.

The modern incarnation of Piaget’s Polo sports watch has been a low-key attainable alternative to the Patek Philippe Aquanaut for some time now, and the line’s first rose gold model only makes the comparison more apt. Boasting a 42mm case in solid 18K rose gold with the Polo’s trademark horizontally brushed bezel, a black striated dial and an integrated black rubber strap, this Polo is the perfect blend of elegant and sporty.

Rolex’s entry-level model had become known for its brightly colored dial treatments in recent years, like the viral Celebration dial, but for 2025, the brand took the OP in a more muted direction with pastel shades of Pistachio, Lavender and the Beige seen here. Simultaneously modern and retro, the Beige lacquer dial is a surprise hit available across a range of Oyster Perpetual sizes.