Why This New Version of a Legendary American Military Tool Watch Could Prove Controversial

The watch that Special Forces relied on in Vietnam has entered a new era.

a benrus military tool watchBenrus

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The history of horology is littered with iconic military watches, from the Rolex MilSub to the Breguet Type 20. One of the most beloved by collectors, at least on this side of the world, is the Benrus Type 1.

The watch was originally issued to U.S. Special Forces fighting in the Vietnam War by Benrus, which at that time was still producing watches in America. The company has changed hands several times since the 1970s, with an American-based investment group taking over ownership earlier this year (the brand’s watches are now produced in Switzerland).

Under its new direction, Benrus has shown a willingness to go beyond its bread and butter of producing faithful reissues of its vintage military watches, and that’s never been more evident than with the new Benrus Type 1 M1.

a Benrus watch on some rocks glows in the dark
The new Benrus Type 1 M1 is almost unrecognizable from the original mil-spec watch.
Benrus

It’s not just for soldiers anymore

Benrus has completely reimagined the M1 to turn it into a more versatile everyday watch while also giving it several upgrades that tilt the model toward luxury status.

Starting with the case, Benrus has beefed up the size from 39.5mm to 41.5mm for a more contemporary profile and greater wrist presence. The case has also received a cosmetic makeover, with the utilitarian sandblasted finish giving way to a mix of satin brushing and high-polished chamfering.

a Benrus watch viewed from the side
Refined case finishing, a ceramic bezel insert and a double-domed sapphire crystal are some of the M1’s changes.
Benrus

The sapphire crystal is now double-domed with anti-reflective coating on both sides, while an additional sapphire crystal has been added to the caseback to give a view of the movement within, which remains an ETA 2892 automatic.

The dial has received the most noticeable update, with the sterile black dial being exchanged for a champagne dial with the Benrus logo at 12 o’clock and additional text at 6. Purists will undoubtedly cry foul, but if Benrus wants to sell watches to a wider audience, having a more familiar dial style like this probably helps.

a benrus watch caseback with a display window showing the movement
A sapphire caseback has been added, offering a view of the premium ETA 2892 movement.
Benrus

The aluminum bezel insert has been exchanged for one made of scratch-resistant ceramic, and that’s not the only change the brand has made to the bezel. Curiously, it now features a diver-style 60-minute unidirectional bezel instead of the original bidirectional (or friction-fit) 12-hour style. This effectively makes the watch into a dive watch, whereas before it had a more unique feature with its mini GMT function.

The watch comes with a two-piece nylon strap in a taupe color that’s well-matched to the dial, while the hands and indices retain the BGW9 Super-LumiNova lume of the standard Benrus Type 1 Mil-Spec. Water resistance has been reduced from 36.5 bar (~1,200 feet) to 20 bar (~660 feet), and it’s unclear if the new watch passed the same MIL-W-50717 mil-spec standard as its predecessor — Benrus makes no mention of it on the M1’s product page.

Not everyone will approve

I suspect Benrus’s new take on the M1 might cause a bit of controversy. Purists and lovers of the original will consider the myriad changes — champagne dial, ceramic dive bezel, fancy case finishing, a logo — to be too much of a departure from the iconic American mil-spec watch from the ’70s.

a Benrus watch on a mans wrist
White pants and a blue linen shirt don’t exactly scream “military tool watch,” but I think that’s the point.
Benrus

But here’s the thing: Benrus still makes the Type 1 Mil-Spec. That watch isn’t going anywhere, so if that’s what you prefer, you can still buy one. What the Type 1 M1 does, in my opinion, is experiment with Benrus’s heritage and design language in a way that opens the brand up to new customers.

Not everyone wants a sterile, sandblasted military watch. A lot of people want something that looks like a luxury dive watch. The Type 1 M1 gives them that, and at a decent price, too. The watch is available today from Benrus’s website for $1,900, a slight premium over the Type 1 Mil-Spec’s $1,720 SRP.

a benrus watchBenrus

Benrus Type 1 M1

Benrus updates its iconic Type 1 military watch with an array of high-end update that transform the watch from a purpose-built tool to a more elevated piece that’s still plenty capable. Changes include a new ceramic bezel insert, a brushed and polished case, a champagne dial (with a logo) and more.
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