This Gorgeous Minimalist Dress Watch Should Cost 5x More

Swiss watchmaker Ba111od offers the precision of a tourbillon escapement and the beauty of a clean onyx open-heart dial at a relatively affordable price.

a black dial Ba111od dress watchBa111od

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Swiss watchmaker Ba111od, pronounced “Baillod,” is a small operation that stands toe-to-toe with some of the biggest names in the industry in terms of aesthetics and precision, while undercutting them in price.

There is no better demonstration of this practice than the new Chapter 4 Onyx Flying Tourbillon, a gorgeous minimalist dress watch at a surprisingly low—if still luxurious—price.

a black dial Ba111od dress watch
The Chapter 4 Onyx Fling Tourbillon exposes the movement’s most crucial component.
Ba111od

Founded in 2019 by Thomas Baillod, the young brand is notable for designing every element of its watches in-house and producing many in its facility, much like the generations-old brands it competes with.

For anything Ba111od can’t make on site, it works with a network of local partners, a luxury afforded by the brand’s location in the heart of the Swiss watchmaking hub of Neuchatel.

a Ba111od watch dial
The only detail on the dial is a black Ba111od logo, visible only by its contrasting matte texture.
Ba111od

The Chapter 4 Onyx Flying Tourbillon represents the climax of Ba111od’s open-heart tourbillon series, which will cease production after this reference. It marks the final opportunity to buy one of the best dress watches in the $10,000 price range.

A heart in stone

Minimalism can speak volumes when executed correctly, and Ba111od puts on a masterclass with the Chapter 4 Onyx Flying Tourbillon.

It is a distinct departure from previous entries in the Chapter 4 line, which feature fully skeletonized dials or intricate dial textures.

a black dial Ba111od dress watch
The dial is made from solid onyx.
Ba111od

The dial’s wavy mirrored surface is achieved by using cut onyx, which reveals the precious stone’s natural grain. It perfectly contrasts the brilliantly polished steel dauphine hands and exposed movement.

A polished steel rim frames the tourbillon, which is “flying” without an upper bridge obscuring it from view. It allows the motion of the escapement to mesmerize the viewer while in action.

Ba111on’s logo is subtly placed at the center of the tourbillon, making it slightly more pronounced than the matte black logo applied at twelve o’clock, visible only by its contrasting texture to the onyx dial.

a tourbillon visible through a watch dial
The tourbillon is signed with Ba111on’s logo at its center.
Ba111od

The exposed toubillon is at the heart of Ba111on’s in-house caliber BA.02 hand-wound movement, which boasts an impressive 120-hour power reserve when fully wound.

It is topped with a double anti-reflective-coated box-shaped sapphire crystal sunken into a curved bezel rim.

A luxury tier bargain

Minimalist dials, absent of scales, markers and logos, are common in the top luxury tiers. It provides a sleek sophistication, like a well-tailored navy blue suit, while letting the mechanical aptitude of elite watchmakers speak for itself.

a black dial dress watch
The Chapter 4 Onyx Flying Tourbillon comes on a calfskin leather strap embossed with a crocodile texture.
Ba111od

Movado may be the first brand that comes to mind with minimalist dials, but the Ba111od emulates far less approachable brands, like Parmigiani, Zenith and Cartier.

New-Moser-Watches-Gear-Patrol-inline-1
The H. Moser Endeavor Tourbillon Concept Vantablack, which retails for $84,000.

Calling a $10,000 watch an “affordable alternative” is an audacious claim. However, for those with the means, the Chapter 4 Onyx Flying Tourbillon offers a remarkably similar look and performance to the H. Moser Endevour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack, which retails for $84,000.

Availability and pricing

The Ba111od Chapter 4 Onyx Flying Tourbillon is now available for preorder from Ba111od for $10,790.

The current price is part of a promotional offer during the preorder period and will rise to $11,990.

Expected delivery for current orders is in six months.

a black dial Ba111od watch dialBa111od

Ba111od Chapter 4 Onyx Flying Tourbillon

Specs

Case Size 41mm
Movement Ba111od caliber BA.02 manual-wound
Water Resistance 50m
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