This Gorgeous Sports Watch Is Way More Affordable Than It Should Be

There’s a reason for that, even if it’s a silly reason.

atelier wen watch on a mans wristPhoto by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

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Whether fair or not, there is a stigma attached to Chinese-made goods here in the U.S.

China is by far the world’s largest manufacturing superpower, accounting for nearly a third of all manufactured goods globally. That manufacturing prowess was built through decades of producing cheap goods with low-cost labor, a practice that is still widespread, as evidenced by practically everything for sale on sites like Temu, Alibaba and Wish.

But not everything made in China is cheap, disposable junk like you’ll find on Temu. Today, many goods produced in the nation — like Apple products, for instance — are legitimately high-end and require complex production methods, state-of-the-art technology and highly skilled workers.

One area where China has a massively robust industry is the watch industry. Some of the fruits of this labor are indeed seen in cheap Alibaba watches and replicas, but much of it also makes its way into big-name Swiss luxury watches — even if those brands would never admit it. Practically every major watch brand in the world is getting some of its parts from Chinese factories, and the Chinese are more than capable of producing high-quality, high-end watches.

That idea is the whole conceit behind Atelier Wen, a Chinese watch brand founded by two Frenchmen with deep ties to China who set out to change perceptions of the Chinese watch industry by producing a luxury watch that is proudly made in China from all Chinese parts.

The brand’s flagship watch, appropriately named the Perception, debuted in 2022 to great acclaim. Now, Atelier Wen has unveiled the next generation of the Perception, and it might just be the most surprising watch of the year.

Luxury for Less

The new Perception Millésime Mù is the brand’s first non-collaborative release in a year and a half, and it is the first Perception model to showcase new and improved finishing techniques employed by the brand. This is the first Atelier Wen watch I’ve seen in person, so I can’t compare it to previous versions, but I can say that I was stunned by the quality of the watch.

Instead of being made of stainless steel like the original Perception, the new iteration features a case and integrated bracelet in Grade 5 titanium. That’s the grade of the lightweight alloy associated with the aerospace industry. It’s harder and much more difficult to finish compared to cheaper Grade 2 titanium, which is more commonly used in watches.

the purple dial of an atelier wen watch
With the intricate finishing of its Grade 5 titanium case and a hand-turned guilloché, the Perception titanium feels extremely special.
Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

The case is finished immaculately, with a mix of fine brushing and mirror polishing to go along with its intricate shape. The watch is technically a 40mm case, but that’s measured at the widest point of its two “ears” and really wears closer to a 38mm watch.

The integrated bracelet is finished just as well as the case and features mirror-polished chamfers on every side of each brushed link. This creates quite the light show when the watch is on the wrist, making it a lot more blingy than most watches made from naturally dull titanium.

atelier wen watch bracelet held in a hand
The integrated bracelet features multiple chamfers on each individual link.
Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

The bracelet is more tapered than previous versions, I’m told, and it is supremely comfortable. Aiding in this comfort is the clasp, which is one of the best I’ve seen on an integrated bracelet.

It’s a folding clasp, but it’s nice and short, so it sits comfortably and doesn’t mess with the aesthetic of the bracelet. Despite its small size, it actually packs in an on-the-fly micro-adjustment system that can be employed even while wearing the watch.

All you do is press the nicely detailed Atelier Wen logo, which is actually a button that allows you to increase or decrease the length of the bracelet by a few millimeters. What’s more, the clasp has a telescoping “blade” built into the deployant that extends, making it easier to slide the watch over your hand when taking it on and off. This, too, is nicely branded.

the bracelet clasp on an atelier wen watch
The patent-pending clasp features both a telescoping “blade” for easy on/off and a push-button micro-adjust mechanism.
Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

Aiding in the bling of the watch is the stunning purple dial. Like the dials in the existing Perception line, this one features an authentic guilloché pattern that was hand-turned on a rose engine by the brand’s resident master guilloché craftsman, Cheng Yucai. Cheng is arguably the greatest practitioner of this dying craft in all of Asia, and one of the best in the world.

The dial also features rhodium-plated hands and indices, adding even more sparkle. It’s really quite impossible for this watch to appear subtle; either the dial, case, bracelet, or hands and indices will always pop depending on where light is hitting the watch.

Even in the dark, the watch comes alive thanks to blue-glowing X1-grade Super-LumiNova on the hands and on the chapter ring’s Chinese Huiwen pattern. The lume is nice, if somewhat fast-fading, though I would like to see a future version of the Perception use Chinese lume, as Super-LumiNova is Swiss-made.

atelier wen watch glowing with lume
The unique lume application sees a traditional Chinese pattern light up the chapter ring.
Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

Though only available as a separate purchase, I was also able to test out the brand’s integrated rubber strap that fits the Perception. It’s made of FKM rubber and feels very high-quality, and it features a deployant clasp boasting the same branded telescoping blade you’ll find on the bracelet’s clasp.

I tested out the white strap, and I loved the way it paired with the brilliant purple dial. It made the already extremely lightweight watch even lighter, added a sportier and more casual vibe, and allowed me to wear the watch with more confidence as I had no fear of scratching the bracelet. It costs around $200, which isn’t a crazy value but is also definitely less than what similar straps cost from Swiss luxury brands.

atelier wen watch on a mans wrist
The optional FKM rubber strap is supremely comfortable and offers a sporty update to the watch.
Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

My One Qualm

I thoroughly enjoyed my time with the titanium Perception, to the point where I’m even considering purchasing one. But there is one aspect of the watch that gives me pause, and that’s the movement.

While China provides cases and bracelets and dials to watch brands around the world, the one area of watchmaking where the Chinese lag behind the Swiss and Japanese is in movement manufacturing. Chinese mechanical movements simply do not have a great reputation.

The Perception uses the SL1588A calibre automatic movement from the Chinese manufacture Peacock. From what I understand, it’s a higher-end Chinese movement with 32 jewels and a beat rate of 28,800 bph.

the caseback of an atelier wen watch depicting a lion
Just a glimpse of the Chinese-made automatic movement — complete with its purple tungsten rotor — is vibible through the sapphire crystal mouth of the caseback’s stone lion engraving.
Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

Atelier Wen has had the movement heavily customized in an attempt to bring it up to snuff with the rest of the watch, with an extended power reserve (41 hours) and extensive custom decorations that include a purple rhodium-plated tungsten rotor. The movement is rated to +/- 10 seconds per day and underwent testing at China’s Horological Research Institue of Light Industry.

I didn’t experience any accuracy or reliability issues with the movement. In fact, it outperformed its stated precision spec. But it definitely felt far less refined than even an affordable Swiss movement like a Sellita. Winding the movement with the crown felt a little rough, and the rotor spinning was extremely loud — it was even audible at arm’s length.

One thing I loved about the movement, though, is the way it’s displayed. The Perception features a deeply engraved stone lion on the caseback that’s far more intricate than in previous versions, with a sapphire window acting as the lion’s mouth. Through it, you can see a purple grin when the rotor is showing, or you can turn the watch to get a view of the escapement.

Getting Better All the Time

The new Perception from Atelier Wen is a very impressive watch. I wouldn’t necessarily call it affordable, per se, as it costs just over $3,500. But if this exact same watch with these same materials, the same insane level of finishing, the same proprietary features and the same hand-turned guilloché dial said “Swiss Made” on it, I have no doubt it would cost over ten grand. (Of course, by definition it would also have a Swiss movement at that point.)

The watch is limited in time, but not in number. You can order it on Atelier Wen’s website now through October 21, and the brand will make as many as are ordered. But after that window closes, this exact version of the watch will never be produced again.

So yes, I think the Perception Millésime Mù is worth the price considering the quality of the watch you’re ultimately getting. Oh, and by the way, you might even get a better watch than this if you order one.

atelier wen watch
Buy the Perception from titanium and you just might end up receiving a far more valuable tantalum version of the watch instead.
Atelier Wen

The brand is working on a tantalum version of the Perception, which will be almost exactly the same as this version but will be made of tantalum instead of titanium. Tantalum is extremely rare, very hard and dense and very, very pricey. Because of the skill required to work with the material, it’s really only ever used by very prestigious watch brands like F.P. Journe, and it’s almost never been used to craft a full watch bracelet.

Every person who orders the Perception in titanium will automatically be entered into a lottery to win a tantalum version of the watch, and three buyers will ultimately open their watch to find — surprise! — a tantalum Perception instead of the titanium watch they were expecting.

The idea of receiving a better watch than you ordered is certainly surprising, but then again, so is a Chinese-made watch being as luxurious and beautiful as the Perception.

atelier wen purple watchAtelier Wen

Atelier Wen Perception Millésime Mù

Specs

Case Size 40mm
Movement Peacock Cal. SL1588A automatic
Water Resistance 100m
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