If you’re like us, you have a long list of watches you’d love to own. But reality (almost) always steps in, and your desires remain unfulfilled. Gear Patrol’s series Want This, Get This presents a lust-worthy timepiece along with a more affordable alternative that scratches the same itch. Today we present two vintage style, military-inspired chronographs, one that gets it right and the other that goes one better — for one tenth the price.
Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer
Released at Basel 2013, the Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Auto Chrono (good thing they shortened the last two words…) is a great throwback to some of the chronographs Hamilton produced for the British military in the 1970s. Like those originals, the Pilot Pioneer sports an asymmetrical case design and a 3:00-9:00 bi-compax chronograph layout. Hamilton did choose to update a few features and design elements to appeal to today’s buyer, to wit: an increase in size from 40mm to 42mm; a glossy, sunburst dial on the yellow dial variant; a polished bezel to offset the primarily bead-blasted case; a date function; a sapphire case back; the option of a bracelet; and an exclusive derivative of the ETA 7753.
Dubbed the caliber H-31, the Pilot Pioneer’s engine has a larger mainspring barrel, increasing the 7753’s power reserve from 42 hours to 60 hours, and has a higher level of finishing overall, making for an attractive and accurate caliber. That automatic H-31 does add considerable bulk in comparison to the original 1970s Hamiltons, which were powered by a hand-wound Valjoux 7733 movement. The watch’s wrist presence will be no problem for casual wear but could mean trouble when fitting it under the cuff. While we may not agree with all of Hamilton’s updated design choices, this is a handsome watch to be sure; its biggest downfall happens to be its price. Coming in at just under $2K, this is one of Hamilton’s more expensive offerings.