You Can Always Count on Hermès to Follow Its Own Star. These Watches Are Proof

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders (formerly SIHH) has moved online and Baselworld 2020 is canceled, but that hasn’t stopped watch brands large and small from debuting their new wares. Stay on top of this year’s best new watch releases here.

The Slim d’Hermès line, in all its various iterations, is one of our favorites of modern watchmaking. The lightness of the case design, the typeface, the mechanics — everything is just right. The time-only and GMT versions both speak their own language in a way that feels both modern and timeless.

The Arceau L’heure de la Lune, which debuted at last year’s SIHH, is a brilliant take on the moon phase complication that sees the main time and date displays spin around the dial. Both watches have been updated for 2020 with new livery.

Slim d’Hermès GMT

For 2020, Hermès has introduced a rose gold version of the GMT with a blue dial and sunburst chapter ring. Powered by the H1950 manufacture-calibre automatic movement, the 39.5mm watch is just 9.48mm thick — incredibly thin for a mechanical GMT watch.

Key Specs: $19,675; 39.5mm 5N rose gold case; GMT complication

Arceau L’heure de la Lune

Last year’s whimsical Arceau L’heure de la Lune is now available in several more iterations, including with lapis lazuli, blue pearl, lunar meteorite, “black Sahara” and “Mars” dials. This unique take on the standard moon phase complication was by no means inexpensive in its original, limited-edition incarnation (roughly $24,800), and the new versions will only set you back father. But for dedicated Hermès collectors or fans of wholly original design, the Arceau L’heure de la Lune could be just the ticket.

Key Specs: $33,200-$54,100; 43mm precious metal case (white gold or platinum); moon phase complication

© Hermès / JVA Studios

The Trend

This is not an instance in which we’re seeing revivals of catalog pieces — the Slim d’Hermès and Arceau L’heure de la Lune are new watches (well, fairly new) with original design language and a distinctly modern aesthetic. Hermès, perhaps because it’s not a dedicated Swiss watchmaking house, very much continues to do its own thing.

The Takeaway

Hermès is one luxury brand that seems unafraid to buck tradition and release significantly more forward-thinking designs. Of course, one could argue that this is necessitated by the maison not having a 150-year-old watchmaking history, as some other blue-chip brands do. But it’s nice to have a breath of fresh air amongst the more traditional, vintage-inspired, reimagined watches that have been debuting this week, beautiful as many of them are.

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