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Seiko 5 Sports Review: One of the Best Values in All of Watchmaking

I can’t stop wearing this ultra-affordable tool watch. Here’s why.

Published September 21, 2024

Updated September 21, 2024

Most mornings, I wake up to a mishmash of watches waiting to be chosen. I usually pause for a second to reflect on my mood, as well as the requirements of the day ahead.

Sometimes, however, decidedly more upmarket options get passed over in favor of an unassuming and inexpensive little Seiko watch that just seems to click. When that happens, it feels like the start of a good day.

Seiko 5 Sports Collection

The particular watch in question, the SRPD91, is from the Seiko 5 Sports collection. And it represents exactly the kind of value and character those Seiko fans — myself included — won’t shut up about.

seiko watch — The SRPD91 from Seiko’s Sports 5 series has a rugged, military style, but the collection offers a wide range of colors and options.

My SRPD91 is the kind of watch that’s easy to recommend to someone looking for a casual automatic watch, even if they’re willing to spend more money. It’s just that good — something the newbie or even the experienced collector will love.

I still love my other wrist companions but the Seiko 5 Sports beats even the fanciest watches in the world in one important metric: it’s fun.

Seiko 5 Sports SRPD91

Specs

Case Diameter	42.5mm
Case Thickness	13.25mm
Water Resistance	100m
Movement	Seiko 4R36 automatic

Pros

Highly comfortable
Affordable and strong value
Handsome but also unique
Great level of details for the price

Cons

Dive watch-style design but only 100m water resistance
Watch out for imperfect alignment

$270 at Amazon

$360 (25% off)

It’s inexpensive, but it doesn’t feel like a compromise

You’d expect a watch at this price to be pretty no-frills, so the level of details and features you find here feel like a surprise.

seiko 5 sports watch case detail — The Seiko 5 Sports’ build and finishing is unmatched at this price, and the case proportions are insanely wearable and ergonomic.

The case is brushed on top and polished on the sides (on this particular SRPD91 version). The dial is super legible, with tons of lume and applied indices. The fit and finish make it comfortable and attractive to wear, and its automatic movement is visible through the case back.

Taken together, it all makes the Seiko 5 Sports feel, dare I say, refined.

You can tell your friends it’s got an in-house movement

If your friends know or care what an in-house movement is, they’ll likely already know that all Seiko watches have them. It means that the name of the maker on the dial is the same that made the movement inside — and it’s considered a badge of prestige among many high-end watches.

seiko 5 sports watch caseback and movement — You can see the Seiko 4R36 automatic movement through the caseback. This is the same movement as found in more expensive and well loved models like the Prospex “Turtle.”

You can see the movement through the caseback, and this is fun to show your friends, too. It might not be the prettiest in the world, but it’s still cool to see — and it’s impressively solid despite its affordable price.

There are a ton of stylistic options in the collection

The core of modern Seiko 5 Sports are models such as this, which Seiko (sometimes) describes as SKX Style due to its design being based on the iconic SKX dive watch. The model shown here represents the core collection well but there are more colors and flavors to choose from than Baskin-Robbins ice cream.

We’re talking everything from those that make handsome everyday watches to some pretty far-out executions and collabs with streetwear brands or anime series.

And, in addition to the dive-style watches shown here, here are those with more conservative styles, smaller cases and field-watch designs — all while remaining consistent with the Seiko 5 Sports look, features and price. For a little bit of a premium, you can even get a still shockingly affordable automatic GMT.

It looks like a dive watch but isn’t

Visually, this is a classic Seiko dive watch with DNA from the brand’s iconic SKX line. Does it bother me that the Seiko 5 Sports, like some other popular watches, is styled like a dive watch but is only rated for 100m of water resistance?

If it had only 30m of water-resistance, like a dress watch, it would bother me. But it doesn’t. This watch is ready for just about anything you can throw at it — including water. It’d be even better as an actual dive watch, of course, but there’s the Seiko Prospex collection for that.

seiko 5 sports watch lume — Seiko’s always strong in the lume game, and they don’t skimp even in their most affordable range.

Alternatives to the Seiko 5 Sports

Much of what characterizes the Seiko 5 Sports collection is what it offers for its price, and there’s really not much else out there that quite matches it.

It’s also important to note that circa $325 is the starting retail price (the model shown here with a black IP finish retails for $360), but watches competing for your money will have to match “street prices” on the likes of Amazon which can often be under $300 and closer to around $200 (other than special editions and the like) and even less.

Even microbrands can’t really operate at this price point for automatic watches with sporty specs, so you’re mostly going to be looking at fellow Japanese watchmakers Citizen and Orient.

While fit and finish won’t quite keep up with Seiko, both those brands offer watches actually rated for diving with 200m of water resistance for similar prices as the Seiko 5 Sports.

The Citizen Promaster Dive “Fugu” is a favorite for its real diving cred, and dive watches from Orient such as its Mako, Ray and Kanno lines basically undercut everyone else’s pricing. A notable option from the microbrand world is Dan Henry with its 1970 Diver.