Waffle. Honeycomb. Linen. These are a few of the unofficial names for captivating dial executions found on some vintage watches. Watch dials with strong textures can add a lot of character and help an otherwise conservative design stand out — and yet dial texture usually remains a subtle, overlooked element of watchmaking. The majority of watch dials are matte or semi-glossy, the texture itself usually less emphasized than the color.
Watches like those below, however, stand out from the crowd with striking dial textures. Not only does texture add visual interest, but it also tends to help legibility — the importance of which can’t be overstated. These two factors together can go a long way in contributing to the longterm enjoyment of a watch, and the following examples from Wittnauer, Bulova, and Tudor each take a very different approach toward this aesthetic differentiation.
Wittnauer Automatic
What We Like: This Wittnauer from the 1950s has a “waffle dial,” so called for obvious reasons. It’s also got a crosshair motif, more commonly seen on watches from the ’50s and ’60s than on those from today. It measures 34.5mm wide with a 10kt gold-filled case (meaning a layer of gold, much thicker than gold plating, is bonded to a steel base) and a Swiss automatic movement. You’ve also got to love that very retro Speidel band.
From the Seller: The Swiss 17 Jewel movement & automatic system have been cleaned, oiled & timed. It is running strong and very accurately.
