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We are living in a sort of microbrand watch Renaissance, and outfits like Brooklyn-based Carpenter Watches provide a good example of small-brand watchmaking done right. The young company’s second model, the Brooklyn Gent, is restrained in size and design, well-executed, and backed up with solid specs, including a Swiss automatic movement. Its understated simplicity is what will divide who is attracted to it from who is underwhelmed by it, but those for whom the sober character resonates will find it offers a solid value.
Notable: Being a down-to-earth indie brand from Brooklyn, New York, is an important part of Carpenter Watches’ identity, and denoting it on the dial will surely charm a certain portion of the brand’s intended audience. (Count this reviewer among them.) The Brooklyn Gent watch straddles the line between mid-century dress and tool watches, but manifests it in a tasteful way that feels utilitarian. Its 38mm diameter is on-trend and wears smallish by modern standards, somewhat like how a lot of vintage watches do.
Who It’s For: The Carpenter Brooklyn Gent is versatile both in the sense of what kind of people will enjoy wearing it as well as in what kinds of situations. It’s stylistically neutral, neither dressing up nor dressing down most outfits. Those looking for a first mechanical watch under $1,000 will be well-served by it as a piece of basic, handsome, everyday wear. Brooklyn hipsters and watch fans, especially those of the vintage persuasion, will appreciate the throwback sizing and other retro cues like the domed acrylic crystal.
Alternatives: Perhaps even five years ago, Carpenter’s watches would have stood out for their American provenance and value offered for a Swiss automatic movement and other enthusiast-friendly specifications. Now, however, there are a number of American watch brands jostling for your attention, and even more indie brands at and around Carpenter’s price point. In New York alone there are brands like Martenero, automotive-themed Autodromo, and coffee-themed(!) Brew Watches, all generally competitively priced, and Mercer is not too far away in New Jersey.
A symbol of the burgeoning modern American watch industry is Shinola in Detroit (as denoted on its dials), and their Runwell Automatic, which features a similar Swiss automatic movement, seems like it may appeal to some of Carpenter’s same demographic, though it’s priced slightly higher at $1,095. Finally, the Weiss 38mm Standard Issue Field Watch, with “Los Angeles” on the dial, features a manually wound Swiss movement, comparable sizing and a price of $1,150.
