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Silicon has arisen in the last several years as a wonder material in watchmaking. First utilized in an escapement by independent watchmaker Ulysse Nardin in 2001, the material has surfaced in movements from watchmakers like Omega, Rolex and even Patek Philippe. Silicon is non-ferrous, so it easily mitigates the negative effects that magnetism has on a watch movement. Its low friction and light weight also mean that it’s more efficient and durable than metallic counterparts, and is thus conducive to a more accurate, more efficient and more durable watch.
In 2017, Baumer & Mercier became the first watchmaker in the Richemont group to offer a watch with a silicon escapement, the gold-cased, hand-winding Clifton Manual 1830. This is interesting if you’re familiar with Baume & Mercer’s standing within the greater Richemont lineup — the brand is decidedly entry-level for the group (which owns brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Panerai), and it’s better known for classically-styled watches that use third-party movements, rather than for technical innovation. Sure enough, however, this limited-edition watch represented a major first for one of the world’s largest watchmaking conglomerates, and it paved the way for this: the Clifton Baumatic COSC.
The Baumatic uses the same silicon escapement as the Clifton 1830, but adds automatic winding and ditches the gold case for one of stainless steel. Whereas the 1830 was a 10-piece, $14,350 limited edition, this new watch is a mainstream model with an accessible sub-$3,000 retail price.
The Good: On a technical level, the Baumatic is one of the most impressive watches at its price point. The watch boasts, in addition to COSC-rated accuracy, anti-magnetism up to 1,500 gauss and a five-day power reserve. You won’t find too many other watches with silicon escapements in this price range, and certainly not many with this kind of power reserve. Additionally, Baume & Mercier claims the watch can run long past the watch industry’s standard three-to-five-year service interval. The Rest of the Baumatic is fairly handsome and well-proportioned, too, but it’s the movement and the performance that it brings at this price that makes the Baumatic one of the most exciting watch releases of the year.
Who They’re For: Baume & Mercier is firmly rooted as an entry-level luxury brand and is likely trying to court newbie luxury watch owners. The extended service interval is certainly appealing to mechanical watch owners intimidated by maintenance, and the watch’s relatively simple design language plays to the idea of a high-end watch that can be worn in most settings. The entry-level luxury watch field, however, is a crowded one, and so buyers interested in technical specs will be most drawn to Baumatic COSC.
