There’s something to be said about a watch that flies under the radar. In passing, they’ll look simple, unremarkable — there are no bold, rotating bezels, colorful subdials or chunky cases like you’d find on a sought-after vintage dive watch or chronograph. But under closer inspection, these watches harbor some lust-worthy details: high-end movements, impeccable finishing, refined case designs. That’s why the nerdiest of watch nerds will “ooh” and “aah” over them, and why they’re worth seeking out. They may not turn heads, but they’ll surely make you smile.
Universal Genéve Polerouter
What we like: Before Gerald Genta turned the watch world on its head with the Royal Oak, he crafted decidedly simpler (but no less striking) designs like the Poelrouter, an anti-magnetic watch meant to commemorate the first commercial flight route over the North Pole. The two-tone, cross-hair dial is a stunner, while the “twisted” lugs on the case are an elegant touch. Though this doesn’t feature the micro-rotor automatic of later Polerouters, the 138 bumper automatic is an excellent movement in its own right.
From the seller: The watch is in good condition overall, with light wear marks visible on the steel case throughout. Silver quadrant dial has taken on an even patination, as has the luminous material on the dial and dauphine hands. Some light stippling is visible across the dial, and there is some minor degradation to the luminous material between 10:00 and 11:00. Screw case back retains original UG engraving and numbers; UG-signed crown.
