Hodinkee’s Newest Collab Is the Perfect Size for a GMT Dive Watch

For Mido’s first watch collab, its affordable Ocean Star GMT gets a new size at 40.5mm.

mido watch Courtesy

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Watch website and retailer Hodinkee is at it again with another collab watch, and this time with a killer GMT dive watch — from an unexpected partner. Mido is unexpected because the Swiss watch brand doesn’t get a lot of attention in the United States, and it’s never done a limited-edition collaboration before. And this collab goes way beyond your typical colorway tweaks with a new 40.5mm case created especially for this edition.

A Swatch Group brand, Mido is better known in some Asian and European markets, but American watch enthusiasts discovering it often find the brand to be a “pleasant surprise.” That was my experience, at least, echoed by watchnerd acquaintances I’ve discussed it with. The brand has an affordability and bang-for-buck focus, and its Ocean Star dive watch has an unexpected level of fit and finish for the price.

Only problem? Aside from not much visibility in the US market, the Ocean Star collection watches are a bit bigger than many enthusiasts want nowadays at 42.5mm for the Ocean Star 200. Hodinkee got its finger on the pulse of what watch buyers want and it gets that around 40mm is increasingly the “sweet spot” for many. Enthusiasts also love GMTs, but the standard GMT version of the Mido Ocean Star is an even more aggressive 44mm wide.

The Mido Ocean Star GMT Limited Edition for Hodinkee, as it’s formally called, has a 40.4mm case that doesn’t exist elsewhere in Mido’s collection (it remains water-resistant to 200m). That means this limited edition was designed largely from the ground-up, while staying consistent with the Ocean Star collection aesthetics. Like nearly all Hodinkee collabs, there’s a “retro” theme throughout, from its vintage logo to its lack of crown guards (also unique in the collection).

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Wearability is everything, and 40.5mm is right around what many enthusiasts consider a “sweet spot.”
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All that sounds pretty cool, but a GMT function makes it even cooler, and it’s the type known as a “true GMT” — meaning you’re meant to adjust the main time’s hour hand as you travel while the 24-hour hand tracks your home time zone. It’s the kind of GMT that’s sometimes associated with more prestigious watches. The automatic movement inside comes from sister brand ETA and offers an 80-hour power reserve.

The Mido quality, in a “sweet spot” size, with a “true GMT” — it sounds like a lotta watch for the asking price of $1,390. There’ll only be 999 examples made for this Hodinkee collaboration, but we hope that it’s the beginning of something greater for Mido. We’d like to see the brand’s permanent Ocean Star collection expand to include more watches in this size — and that Mido starts to get more of the attention it deserves.

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