This year’s big watch industry trade show — the first in-person edition of Watches & Wonders Geneva in three years — featured a welcome mix of simpler time-only classics and complicated haute horlogerie. The showstoppers, however, were largely complex pieces that track multiple time zones, calendar information and more.
New watches from Patek Philippe, Tudor and Rolex dominated conversations on the show floor. But Oris and TAG Heuer proved that they’re still masters of classic categories such as pilot’s and dive watches.
It was refreshing to be able to try on this year’s crop of new wares in person, and we must say, it’s a winning combination of approachable and fantastical — just the sort of mix that keeps the horological world exciting.
Editor’s Note: This list is in alphabetical order.
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Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon
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This isn’t just the most expensive watch Grand Seiko has ever produced. It’s also out of character for a brand typically known for practicality and a conservative style. A skeletonized tourbillon is neither of those things, but it shows off the brand’s impressive capabilities — and its rise to compete among the most prestigious high-end watchmakers. This isn’t your average tourbillon, either: it’s developed to maintain steady flow of power even as the spring winds down in order to maintain chronometry. And, just for fun, it has a jumping seconds han.
Who It’s For
Are you surprised that Grand Seiko has dedicated collectors ready to spend $350,000 on a totally wild watch? Don’t be. Collectors that know high-end watchmaking and buy this kind of watch will know the creativity and quality they’re looking at.
- Reference Number: SLGT003
- Diameter: 43.8mm
- Pricing: $350,000
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IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition “Lake Tahoe”
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For 2022, IWC took its beloved Pilot’s Watch Chronograph in 44mm and gave it a blindingly white costume. Inspired by US Naval uniforms and the winter landscape around Lake Tahoe, it features a white ceramic case and a matching rubber/textile strap. Powered by an in-house movement, it’s a nice change from the rest of the collection, which often makes use of military-adjacent coloring such as green, black and tan.
Who It’s For
Limited to 1,000 pieces, this is the sort of watch that’s clearly fodder for collectors. However, given its boldly colored case paired to an otherwise stark, utilitarian dial, the “Lake Tahoe” is basically primed to become elevated streetwear.
- Reference Number: IW389105
- Diameter: 44mm
- Pricing: CHF 11,000
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A Lange & Söhne Odysseus Titanium
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A. Lange & Söhne is well known for its highly complicated, dressy pieces — that’s why people lost their sauce in 2019 when the brand debuted the sporty Odysseus in stainless steel. Further evolving the luxury sports watch concept, Lange released this limited-edition titanium version that’s 43 percent lighter than its steel cousin.
Who It’s For
Folks who couldn’t get their hands on a Nautilus or Royal Oak rejoiced when the original Odysseus debuted in 2019. Now that Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet watches are even purer unobtanium, more potential buyers will invariably flock to Lange. Of course, dedicated collectors will want one, too.
- Reference Number: 363.117
- Diameter: 40.5mm
- Pricing: $56,500
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen
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Montblanc has created the first watch to be completely free of oxygen. But it’s no mere novelty. Extreme environments found on the world’s highest peaks can cause a watch’s crystal to fog up; without oxygen, however, the dial will remain clear as day (it also prevents the oxidation of internal components). The watch will be tested by mountaineer Nimsdai Purja on an upcoming expedition to the peak of Mount Everest.
Who It’s For
This piece will be useful to mountaineers, sure, but also of interest to collectors who appreciate pragmatic innovation in watchmaking.
- Reference Number: LE290
- Diameter: 44mm
- Pricing: $8,600
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Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Salmon Dial
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This release from fan-favorite brand Oris takes the company’s in-house Caliber 400 with five-day power reserve — and 10-year recommended service interval! — and houses it in a super cool titanium case with a matching, serpentine bracelet. Sleek and handsome, this is one of the best Oris watches in years, full stop.
Who It’s For
Some folks care about in-house movements, some don’t. But who wouldn’t want a great-looking everyday watch with a fantastic movement, a 10-year warranty and a great bracelet at under $4,500? This is the type of piece that could introduce an entirely new generation to Oris.
- Reference Number: 400 7778 7158 7 20 01 TLC
- Diameter: 39mm
- Pricing: $4,300
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Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech
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Panerai is largely known for its classic, military-inspired dive watches. However, in recent years the Italian-founded brand has been expanding more into complicated watchmaking. The new Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech PAM00715 fits a perpetual calendar into a platinum case in the well known Luminor profile, making for a deceptively complex timekeeper that looks otherwise like a standard-issue tool watch. However restrained, that gray-green dial will turn heads.
Who It’s For
Panerai collectors — “Paneristi” — are among the most die-hard, dedicated watch fans in the world. This piece is the sort of watch that these folks go bonkers for, though it’s also perfect for a well-heeled someone who’s craving a more utilitarian quantieme perpetuel.
- Reference Number: PAM00715
- Diameter: 44mm
- Pricing: $67,800
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Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
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If you know the term rattrapante, you think of a chronograph watch. But the word just means “catch up” in French. Here, it’s applied to a GMT, and it’s the first-ever watch to offer its specific functionality. You can track another time zone when traveling with the hour hand (advanced by the pusher at 8 o’clock), and when you activate the rattrapante function (via the pusher integrated into the crown), the hour hand of the main time will jump back and catch up with the gold GMT hand — that’s been tracking the hour in your home time zone the whole time. It then hides underneath the main time’s hour hand to stealthily look like a much simpler watch than it in fact is. Yeah, it’s elegant and cool, and it’s never been done before.
Who It’s For
An evolution on the luxury sports watch concept, the Tonda PF is for collectors looking for more functionality and novelty — as well as the excellent craftsmanship Parmigiani is known for.
- Reference Number: PFC905-102000B-100182
- Diameter: 40mm
- Availability: August 2022
- Pricing: $28,700
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time
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Patek Philippe has never before combined its beloved “travel time” complication with an annual calendar, which only needs to be adjusted once per year. Throw this in a Calatrava case with a vintage-inspired dial, and you’ve got a bona fide show-stopper.
Who It’s For
Given pricing, this is a watch for high-rollers, dedicated Patek collectors, serious horophiles and lottery winners. However, it’s been so popular at Watches & Wonders that we could see this singular model expanding interest in Patek among a younger clientele. It’s that good.
- Reference Number: 5326G
- Diameter: 41m
- Pricing: CHF 65,000
Ressence Type 8
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The conceptual nature and complexity of Ressence’s unique approach unsurprisingly comes at a premium, but a relatively more affordable new model is welcome. The brand doesn’t introduce a totally new collection often, and the latest takes the Bauhaus design and doubles down on the minimalism. The Type 8 is the brand’s simplest model, it’s comfortable and lightweight in titanium — and it also significantly significantly less than anything else from the brand.
Who It’s For
Though still an expensive luxury item in the grand scheme of things, the Type 8 offers a new entry level to one of the most innovative watch brands. Those who couldn’t quite afford the brand’s previous offerings now have a significantly more attainable option.
- Diameter: 42.9mm
- Availability: March 2022
- Pricing: CHF 12,500
Rolex Air-King
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Rolex’s aeronautically themed, time-only collection was in need of an overhaul, and the Crown delivered: for 2022, the new ref. 126900 received crown guards for the first time and a 32XX-series movement, while the contentious, instrument-inspired dial received a few tweaks, including a “0” before the 5 index for aesthetic uniformity.
Who It’s For
At a price of $7,000, the new Air King is one rung on the ladder beyond “entry-level” Oyster Perpetual territory. Still, it’s much cheaper than a Sub, GMT Master II or Daytona, and it should also be easier to purchase at retail.
- Reference Number: 126900
- Diameter: 40mm
- Availability: March 2022
- Pricing: CHF 7,000
Rolex GMT Master II
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Nobody — and we mean nobody — saw a left-handed Rolex coming, let alone a left-handed GMT Master II. Rolex also delivered this baby in a brand-new colorway, making for an exciting W&W debut.
Who It’s For
Both southpaws and righties should be excited by this watch — when a righty wears it on his or her left hand, the crown won’t dig in, as it’s placed on the left side of the case. Die-hard Rolex collectors will probably pick one up, too (if they can), as a new colorway is too tough to resist.
- Reference Number: 126720VTNR
- Diameter: 40mm
- Availability: March 2022
- Pricing: $10,050 (Oyster); $10,250 (Jubilee)
Speake-Marin Ripples
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Whatever you call it, the type of luxury sport watch with an integrated bracelet inspired by the Royal Oak is all any buyer seems to want. It’s perhaps even more interesting when you see unique takes on it from creative independent watchmakers like Speake-Marin. It’s also the brand’s first watch in steel.
Who It’s For
Those who like the style of steel luxury sport watches will find something more unique in the Ripples that to stand out from Royal Oaks and Nautiluses. The interesting dial texture that gives it its name and the off-center seconds subdial help make it immediately recognizable.
- Reference Number: 604015040
- Diameter: 40.3 mm
- Pricing: $21,500
TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph
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TAG Heuer has done some wild things in the past, but this just might take the cake. Not only is it the most expensive watch the brand’s ever produced but it incorporates interesting elements in a way we’ve never seen before. It’s all about diamonds: the crown itself is a massive lab-grown diamond, more diamonds have been integrated into the case itself (in an interesting way) and the polycrystalline diamond dial is “a sum of crystals being grown as one.” Oh, and there’s a tourbillon thrown in for good measure.
Who It’s For
This watch isn’t really for consumers to wear: it’s a one-off creation. But it shows TAG Heuer’s capabilities and creativity, and perhaps even hints a the kind of features that can be expected in more widely available watches in the future.
- Reference Number: WBP1112.FT6199
- Diameter: 40mm
- Availability: October 2022
- Pricing: $2,950
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph
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Believe it or not, this is TAG Heuer’s first solar-powered watch. Housing a caliber from La Joux-Perret and featuring a black, DLC-coated case, it’s a fairly light, unobtrusive timepiece. Bonus points go to the bezel; made of carbon, it’s infused with green Super-LumiNova and looks wildly cool after receiving a good charge from a flashlight.
Who It’s For
Someone looking for a serious dive watch should look here but so should someone who simply wants a cool watch — the combination of light-up bezel, black case, solar-powered movement and stealthy aesthetics is a winner.
- Reference Number: XCBN5A90.FC8315
- Diameter: 44mm
- Availability: April 2022
- Pricing: CHF 350,000
Tudor Black Bay Pro
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Many an enthusiast had been clamoring for a Tudor GMT housed in the 39mm Black Bay 58 case. Well, they sort of got it! Some of them may wish for a thinner case — the BBP measures nearly 15mm tall, including the crystal — others will no doubt love the vintage-inspired looks and availability of the Black Bay Pro compared to Rolex’s wares.
Who It’s For
Speaking of Rolex, the Black Bay Pro is no doubt inspired by the first-generation Explorer II. However, that watch is long out of production, making this one from Tudor a fine alternative. And at a price of $4,000 on steel, it’s perfect for someone who wants a watch with “true” GMT functionality but can’t spring for a ~$10,000 GMT Master II. (Hell, or even find one.)
- Reference Number: 79470
- Diameter: 39mm
- Availability: March 2022
- Pricing: $3,675 (strap); $4,000 (bracelet)
Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 222
Vacheron ConstantinWhy It Matters
The 222 from 1977 was one of the original crop of “luxury sports watches.” However, fewer than 1,000 of the first-generation watches were made, sending secondary market prices into six-figure territory. This modern reimagining under the Historiques line means that collectors can finally enjoy the 222 — albeit with an updated movement from Vacheron.
Who It’s For
Dedicated fans of Vacheron, lovers of luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets and gold watch devotees in general are all going gaga for the 222 Historiques. It’s one of the show favorites, and we can see why — it’s handsome, it’s available and it’s a whole lot of gold.
- Reference Number: 4200H/222J-B935
- Diameter: 37mm
- Pricing: Upon request
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique Edition
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Iterating on the Chronomaster Sport, this boutique-only edition stands out with all the things that make the original a great everyday chronograph. But the tricolored bezel with matching subdials takes it in a different direction from models that would be compared to the Rolex Daytona.
Who It’s For
Not just Zenith collectors. The pale tones of this particular version give a serious chronograph a lighthearted wearable vibe.
- Reference Number: 03.3103.3600/69.M3100
- Diameter: 41mm
- Pricing: CHF 11,900
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