Watches should be accurate and legible. These principles underpin the most successful and familiar watch designs in history, but a purer expression exists in a type of watch known as a regulator. Today, regulator watches are uncommon but offer a unique alternative to standard time-telling that’s simultaneously highly functional and rooted in horological history.
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Before the availability of hyper-accurate timekeeping, watchmakers set and tested their watches against a regulator clock. Workshops would have a regulator positioned where all the watchmakers could easily reference it from their desks, and these were some of the most accurate clocks of their time — as specialized watchmaker tools, they even look a bit special compared to traditional clocks.
Regulator clocks (and watches) are immediately identifiable by their unique layout: One large hand in the center indicates the minutes, while the hours and seconds are measured on smaller subdials of their own. Separating the displays makes for quick and precise reading, and emphasizing the minutes was particularly important for watchmakers regulating their watches and clocks.
This design has been reinterpreted on modern wristwatches, and although uncommon, they remain easy to use and represent a link to the history of horology. They also offer a look and experience that stands apart from that of standard dial layouts without feeling eccentric. Below are some notable modern examples.
Xeric Regulator Automatic Silver Bullet
CourtesyAs a brand focused on retro-themed designs and alternative concepts, it’s no surprise that Xeric would have its own interpretation of the regulator watch. It has the separated displays of a traditional regulator, but is characteristic for the brand’s typically funky design style and also its affordable price point.
