Seiko “Samurai” Review: What Makes This Affordable Dive Watch a Cult Classic

There’s something special about Seiko’s entry-level automatic dive watches. Witness their cult following, affectionate nicknames and passionate (to the point of annoying) advocates. Sure, cheaper dive watches exist, but few compete with the value and character offered by the likes of the “Monster,” the iconic “Turtle” — and the famous “Samurai,” as reviewed here.

Seiko dive watches are legendary, and there are options at nearly every price level. It could be argued that the very bottom of that range is where the strongest value is. This is where you’ll find the models with the most ardent followings — and the models that lead to lifelong Seiko fanboys.

The Samurai is a perfect example, as it displays not only the value and character Seiko fans rave about, but also the brand’s famous quirkiness.

Seiko

Seiko Prospex

Specs

Diameter	44mm
Movement	Seiko 4R35
Water Resistance	200m

Pros

• Unique design
• Strong value

Cons

• A little bold for some tastes
• Not titanium like the original

• $385 at Amazon
  $524.98 (27% off)
• $420 at Macy's
  $525 (20% off)

The “Samurai” name speaks to its following, if not its design

There are two watch brands with a fanbase enthusiastic enough to nickname their watches: Rolex and Seiko. Rolex’s few nicknames mostly come from colorways (Pepsi, Root Beer, Kermit) and celebrity associations (Steve McQueen, Paul Newman).

Photo by Kayla Ramsey for Gear Patrol

Seiko nicknames, on the other hand, lean on idiosyncrasies. The SHC057 “Buzzsaw” (for the saw-like bezel); the SKX781 “Orange Monster” (it’s orange and mean-looking); the SKXA53 “Black Bullet” (black dial, bullet-shaped hour markers); the SARD001 “Sumo” (for its 45mm diameter). When it comes to nicknames, Rolex has nothing on Seiko.

That is in part because Seiko names have historically been an alphanumeric soup, and the nicknames help enthusiasts distinguish models. It’s also because the brand’s wide range of affordable, interesting watches has built a massive fanbase of watch enthusiasts who love them enough to give them pet names.

The not-so-ancient history of the “Samurai”

A solid fanbase means Seiko always succeeds to some degree when it does a reissue. The original Samurai debuted in March 2004 and was discontinued around four years later.

Even though it retailed for just a few hundred dollars, its short lifespan caused secondhand prices that have surpassed $2,000. Like other popular models, it was kind of a no-brainer to bring it back, which the brand did in 2017.

Photo by Kayla Ramsey for Gear Patrol

The 2004-2008 Samurai came in a handful of dial colors and in two different case materials, steel and titanium. It’s probably the latter that made the original watch stand out so much, as Seiko doesn’t do many watches in titanium, especially at the affordable end of things. That combined with the funky, angular case shape made it feel special.

Why the nickname? It’s kind of a mystery, and even Seiko’s own designers seem baffled when discussing it, positing that it was, perhaps, “the kind of design that would evoke a feeling of Japaneseness in the eyes of foreign people.”

Some say its hands were shaped vaguely like samurai swords — people that have probably never seen a samurai sword. Others point out that the earliest images of the watch juxtaposed it in front of a Japanese castle. Never doubt Seikoholics and their propensity to nickname.

The modern Samurai is big and angular, but surprisingly ergonomic

For both the original Samurai and the reissue, what stands out first is the unusual case shape. It’s a blocky thing, with sharp (though not cutting or poking) edges and drastic angles — think: a dive watch version of a Tesla Cybertruck. This gives it a character more or less unlike any other watch we can think of, and the kind of look you’re likely to either love or hate.

Photo by Kayla Ramsey for Gear Patrol

Joining the Prospex family when reissued in 2017, the modern version got a number of updates. Most notable is a bump in size from the original’s 42mm to 44mm, and this is going to put some people off, especially as watch diameters have trended smaller.

However, like other Seiko dive watches that sound large on paper, short lugs and not egregious thickness help it wear surprisingly well. That said, if Seiko brought the Samurai back in titanium at 42mm (or even smaller) and still reasonably priced, it’d surely be a slam dunk.

Photo by Kayla Ramsey for Gear Patrol

The hands’ design is also completely different from the original — but one thing they share in common: neither looks like a samurai sword. An important update is found inside, as Seiko has equipped it with a modern automatic movement in the 4R35 which easily beats the old models with their 7S25 lacking hand-winding or hacking.

Alternatives to the Seiko Prospex “Samurai”

Retailing for $525, and often less on sale, this particular Seiko isn’t like anything else in its price range — or any other price range, for that matter. There are some great options in the sub-$1,000 range for dive watches, but nothing that really has the Samurai’s character.

If you like the Samurai’s price, value and specs, you can look to equivalent watches from Seiko, watches like the above-mentioned Monster and Turtle. Choosing between these watches is really only a matter of taste.

If you like the Samurai but want a step up with features like sapphire crystal and ceramic bezel insert (and other features), you can have exactly that in the “King Samurai” for a premium of just about $100.

Seiko

Seiko Prospex

Specs

Diameter	44mm
Movement	Seiko 4R35
Water Resistance	200m

• $385 at Amazon
  $524.98 (27% off)
• $420 at Macy's
  $525 (20% off)

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