The Complete Buying Guide to Levi’s Jeans: All Fits, Explained

School yourself on the history, study the terminology and shop every fit from the most storied brand in blue jeans.

Back tag of a pair of Levi's jeansPhoto by Brad Lanphear for Gear Patrol

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In the beginning, there was one: the 501.

Over the past century and a half, Levi’s jeans have become a favorite of miners, laborers, rock stars, fashion designers and practically everyone in-between. No company has done more to make denim the quintessential American garment that transcends all social classes.

However, it is important to point out that Levi’s did not invent jeans. Denim goes back centuries and the pants, overalls and jackets made from it are rooted in the history of American laborers, as well as Europeans before them.

History of Levi’s

In 1873, a tailor named Jacob Davis contacted Levi Strauss, a San Francisco dry goods business owner, about rivets he fastened to pants to reinforce their pockets. Davis and Strauss filed a patent for the rivet-reinforced waist overalls that would eventually become known as jeans.

By 1890, the patent expired and Levi’s was no longer the style’s exclusive manufacturer. Cue numerical values: first being the 501 (and the 201, an affordable alternative). Though the reasoning for the numbering remains a mystery, Levi’s used it as the foundation for styles to come: the 505, 511 and so on.

photo of a pocket on pair of blue jeans
Every pair features the “V” shaped pocket stitching known as the Arcuates, and the little red “Levi’s” tab.
Photo by Brad Lanphear for Gear Patrol

After World War II, the humble cotton pants transitioned from workwear to mainstream fashion. Levi’s little red tab was canonized in American cinema by Marlon Brando in The Wild One (1953), James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause (1954) and Elvis Presley in Jailhouse Rock (1957).

As blue jeans became a mainstay of popular culture in the mid-twentieth century, Levi’s began creating dozens of fits for its ever-growing clientele.

Learn more about Levi’s history in our dedicated guide to vintage Levi’s jeans.

Terms to Know

Arcuates: This is the technical term for the two rows of yellow stitches that form arcs on the back pockets of every pair of Levi’s.

Back Patch: No pair of Levi’s is complete without the back right waistband patch showing two horses pulling apart a pair of jeans — a nod to Levi’s strength and durability. For practical purposes, this patch also shows the fit number and size.

Bar Tacks: A series of close machine-made stitches used to reinforce stress points throughout the jeans. Most noticeably, this feature is found on the top corners of the back pockets.

Five Pocket: The foundational design of all blue jeans designed by Levi’s. The five pocket design is simple: two front internal pockets, one right-hand coin pocket — originally a “watch pocket” — and two back patch pockets.

Denim: The fabric used to make jeans, this strong cotton twill is dyed with indigo which gives it a distinctive blue shade. In recent years, this all-cotton fabric is woven with a small percentage of stretch material for comfort.

Inseam: This is the second size listed on the tag. It refers to the measurement from the crotch to the leg opening. Simply put, it’s the length.

Red Tab: This small tab is sewn on the outside of the right back pocket.

Rivets: Another foundational feature of all Levi’s, copper rivets are placed at a handful of stress points on the jeans.

Rise: The rise indicates where the jeans will sit on your waist. When measured, it is the distance between the crotch and the top of the fly. The greater the rise, the higher the jeans will sit on your waist. Typically, slimmer jeans have a lower rise.

Shrink-to-Fit: While only available in a small number of Levi’s 501s, shrink-to-fit jeans are made from denim that has not been pre-shrunk in the factory. Jeans cut from this denim will shrink when soaked and will form to your body. Levi’s claims these jeans will shrink up to 10 percent after the first soak.

Top Block: The part of the pant that includes the waist and hips. The cut here defines the fit through the thighs: skinny, slim or straight.

Waist: To find a waist size, measure across the top of a pair of jeans (laid flat) and double that number (i.e. a waist measured at 16 inches is tagged as a size 32). The waist measurement is also the first number of the tagged size (i.e. 32 x 34).

What the Levi’s Numbers Mean

All Levi’s jeans follow a similar naming sequence, beginning with the 501. But, the reason for the 501 designation is, as we said, a bit of a mystery.

“Around 1890 is when we started calling our copper-riveted waist overalls the 501,” says Jonathan Cheung, the former Senior Vice President of Design Innovation at Levi’s.

“The 501 was a product identification number, but we don’t know the reason why it was a three-digit number beginning with five.”

The mystery surrounding the number is largely due to the San Francisco earthquake of 1906 that destroyed many of the company’s files. “The 501 was a product identification number, but we don’t know the reason why it was a three-digit number beginning with five,” said Cheung.

Levi's logo on a pair of jeans
The Levi’s logo is two horses strapped to a pair of jeans, unable to rip them apart.
Photo by Brad Lanphear for Gear Patrol

So now, as an homage to the company’s legacy, all Levi’s fits are denoted by a number: 501, 505 and 511, among others. Each number denotes a cut designed for a specific style and body type.

How Do Levi’s 501 Jeans Fit?

Since the release of 501s, Levi’s expanded its offering to include numerous fits for different occasions and lifestyles. Currently, the brand offers well over a dozen silhouettes for men. Here’s what makes each one distinct.

501 (Straight Fit)

The fit of the original blue jean has changed over the years but you can still count on this straight cut that sits at the waist with a button fly. Pair ‘em with boots or cuffed with sneakers–you won’t get more classic than this.

  • Year Introduced: 1873
  • Washes: 23
  • Waist: 24 to 46, depending on wash
  • Inseam: 29 to 40

Other Versions of the 501:

501 (Shrink-to-Fit)

This is a raw denim version of the classic 501. These have the same straight fit as the standard 501s but are designed to shrink to your body. There are a few different ways to achieve the best fit, but the Levi’s-approved method is simple: buy a pair with your true waist size, but with an inseam that is two sizes larger than what you typically wear. Put the jeans on and sit in a warm bath. Then wear them until dry.

If you want the simplest route: just machine wash and dry your jeans. Levi’s recommends sizing up 1 inch in the waist and 3 inches in length for this method. They’ll shrink approximately 10 percent after washing.

  • Year Introduced: 1927
  • Washes: 2
  • Waist: 24 to 46
  • Inseam: 29 to 40

505 (Straight Fit)

The 505 is the first zip-fly jean by Levi’s, created in 1967. With a similar cut to the 501, they sit at the waist, offer a bit more room in the thigh and have a straight fit down to the leg opening. Depending on the wash, you can find these in stretch with a 1% Lycra blend or non-stretch. Like the 501, this is a Levi’s classic.

  • Year Introduced: 1967
  • Washes: 26
  • Waist: 26 to 44, depending on wash
  • Inseam: 29 to 36

514 (Straight Fit)

This classic straight fit is designed for those with an athletic build. The 514 is cut for comfort, sitting below the waist with a regular fit through the thigh and a straight leg. Many of its washes are available in stretch, with some adding TENCEL for a soft, cooling feel

  • Washes: 16
  • Waist: 28 to 42, depending on wash
  • Inseam: 29 to 36

559 (Straight Fit)

A comfortable relaxed-fit, the zip-fly 559 sits below the waist, has a roomy thigh and maintains a straight fit in the leg. These are only available in stretch fabrics.

  • Year Introduced: 1985
  • Washes: 12
  • Waist: 26 to 44, depending on wash
  • Inseam: 30 to 36

555 (Relaxed Fit)

This is the Premium version of the 559, with an identical loose fit, made from a higher-quality 100% cotton denim with a bit more heft. Inspiration for this new addition came from the vintage Levi’s that fans seek out on the second-hand market.

  • Year Introduced: 2024
  • Washes: 5
  • Waist: 28 to 38
  • Inseam: 30 to 34

568 (Relaxed Fit)

Levi’s loosest fit is inspired by silhouettes worn in the 1990s. It sits at the waist and runs wide and straight all the way down. The seventeen-inch leg opening, which is a whole inch wider than the 501, drapes over the back of shoes.

  • Year Introduced: 2024
  • Washes: 6
  • Waist: 29 to 38
  • Inseam: 30 to 34

502 (Slim Fit)

The 502 offers a little bit more room in the thigh, sits slightly below the waist and includes a slimming taper down to the leg opening. These feature a zipper fly, and, as Fit Flex indicates, a bit of stretch via LYCRA.

  • Year Introduced: 1967
  • Washes: 18
  • Waist: 28 to 42, depending on wash
  • Inseam: 30 to 34

511 (Slim Fit)

The 511 is Levi’s standard slim fit jean. These are made with denim that includes a bit of stretch, they sit below the waist and are narrow from the thigh through the leg opening. They’ve also got a zipper fly.

  • Year Introduced: 2000
  • Washes: 21
  • Waist: 26 to 36, depending on wash
  • Inseam: 29 to 36

512 (Slim Fit)

These are a spinoff of the 511 but with a narrower fit through the thigh and a tapered leg. They also have a bit of stretch for comfort and a zip fly.

  • Year Introduced: 2000
  • Washes: 9
  • Waist: 26 to 36, depending on wash
  • Inseam: 29 to 36

513 (Slim Fit)

The 513 has a well-rounded fit — not slim but not straight. They sit below the waist, feature a fip fly, they’re slim through the thigh and they have a straight leg. They’re only available in stretch and are made with cotton, TENCEL, and LYCRA.

  • Washes: 5
  • Waist: 26 to 42, depending on wash
  • Inseam: 30 to 34

541 (Athletic Fit)

Made for those with an athletic build, these stretch jeans are an underground hit for Levi’s. These offer a relaxed fit with a slight taper.

  • Washes: 6
  • Waist: 29 to 44
  • Inseam: 30 to 34

550 (Relaxed Fit)

First relaxed in 1985, the 550 was Levi’s initial take on a more relaxed fit. It is based on the 501, but features more room in the top block and thigh.

  • Washes: 8
  • Waist: 32 to 42
  • Inseam: 29 to 36
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