This Is What Military-Issued T-Shirts Looked Like Before WWII

The distinct knit of the 100 percent cotton fabric maximizes stretch and breathability.

Close up of the upper chest of a green Buck Mason Sidewinder Rib Ringer Tee

Published February 6, 2025

·

Every product is carefully selected by our editors. If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. Learn more

Buck Mason’s newest t-shirt design demonstrates that vintage military uniforms are an endless source of inspiration for menswear.

Technically speaking, all t-shirts are based on military-issue undershirts from the early 20th century. But Buck Mason referenced the specific knit of a US Army “skivvy tee” invented a hundred years ago for the brand’s new Sidewinder Rib Ringer Tee.

a man in a green buck mason t-shirt — The Sidewinder Rib Ringer Tee goes through a double dying process, creating a sun-faded texture.

History of skivvy tees

The original design was made from a rib-knit wool that provided breathability and moisture regulation. It was meant to be a base layer to help soldiers regulate body temperature in a wide range of climates. When it got too hot, servicemen would remove their uniforms down to that base layer, and the modern t-shirt was born.

By WWII, the wool ribbed knit was replaced with cotton jersey fabrics, which remain the standard for tees to this day. While jersey knits have benefits like a soft texture and easy production, some features were lost when ribbed fabrics were abandoned.

Its all in the knit

Buck Mason revived the knit pattern of the old military undershirt but replaced the wool with cotton. Using cotton makes the shirt easier to wash and much softer to the touch. To soften it further, every tee goes through a double-dying process, creating a sun-faded appearance and a lived-in feel.

The back of a green t-shirt — Flat knit upright sleeves enhance mobility.

Another benefit of the ribbed knit is that it creates a more substantial fabric with more durability. Despite flaunting breathability and flexibility, the Sidewinder is a heavyweight t-shirt. It weighs in at 11.6 grams, which is just shy of Buck Mason’s burly Field-Spec Tee.

Cuffs and collar

Putting “Ringer” in the name of this tee may be a little confusing. Typically, a ringer tee has a contrasting-colored fabric for the cuffs and collar that look like rings around the neck and arms. However, the term actually applies to how fabric bands are attached around the neckline and sleeve openings, regardless of color.

close up of the neck and arm of a green buck mason t-shirt — The collar and sleeve cuffs are bound with a flat-knit seam.

In this case, the same fabric was used for a bound neckline and cuff that wraps around the body and sleeves of the shirt. This technique creates a much sturdier neckline and sleeve that will hold its shape and resist tearing.

What’s more, Buck Mason’s choice of upright sleeves and reduced sleeve caps give the shirt a vintage vibe that stays true to the skivvy tees of yesteryear, while enhancing arm movement.