Brooks Brothers Went Back 60 Years to Rediscover the Perfect Oxford Shirt

Japanese menswear brand N. Hoolywood partnered with Brooks Brothers to replicate a “perfect” Oxford shirt from the 1960s.

the collar of a white oxford shirtN. Hollywood

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The white Oxford shirt is the most versatile and useful wardrobe staple every man should own, and I will die on that hill. But they are not all created equally, and finding the best is a seemingly never-ending quest.

So I was thrilled to learn that Daisuke Obana, founder of the Japanese menswear label N. Hoolywood, created — or rather, recreated — what he claims to be the perfect white Oxford shirt.

a white oxford shirt laying on a blue sheet
The Brooks Brothers for N. Hoolywood White Oxford Shirt is based on an example from the 1960s.
N. Hollywood

Obana worked with Brooks Brothers to replicate a shirt that the American brand made in the 1960s, which he found in a thrift shop.

The collaborative effort meticulously reproduced the fabric, fit and even the inner-collar tag as it existed over half a century ago.

A piece of menswear history

The late 1950s and early 1960s were the golden age of American preppy fashion. Born on the campuses of elite universities, the now-conservative genre was revolutionary for its relaxed nature at the time.

Alongside khaki chinos, penny loafers, and navy club blazers, the Oxford shirt was a foundational piece of American Ivy style in the mid-twentieth century. Brooks Brothers invented it in 1900, taking inspiration from British polo players.

a folded white oxford shirt
The fabric used was sourced to replicate the one used from the 1960s.
N. Hollywood

The button-down collar was meant to stay in place while riding a galloping horse. America’s oldest clothing brand added the chest pocket and sturdy twill fabric to resist wrinkling.

It was casual compared to early twentieth-century dress shirts, required less maintenance and was suited to rough-and-tumble living. In other words, it was the perfect shirt for college students.

the collar of a white oxford shirt
The collar tag is an exact reproduction of the one used by Brooks Brothers in the 1960s.
N. Hollywood

Obana’s thrifted example must have impacted him the same way ancient Greek sculptures influenced Michelangelo’s statue of David. He found the perfect example of a perfect clothing item and was compelled to reproduce it for the present age to enjoy.

Its all in the details

The Brooks Brothers for N. Hoolywood White Oxford Shirt has a slightly relaxed fit but is still squared in the shoulders like a tailored shirt. This is achieved by a narrower yolk–the back panel that runs between the shoulders–than most contemporary shirts.

the back of a white oxford shirt
A relatively narrow yoke makes the shirt’s body drape loosely with a tailored shoulder.
N. Hollywood

The sleeves are wide in the upper arm and pleated at the cuff, which has a rounded-off club shape at the opening. No buttons are placed on the sleeve placket, a detail found on many modern Oxford shirts.

Fabric is a crucial component of the Oxford shirt. It should be thicker than standard cotton dress shirts but lighter than denim. Obana and Brooks Brothers took great care to replicate the weight and feel of the cotton with a matte texture that is not translucent.

During the 1960s, all collared shirts were designed to be tucked in, so this reproduction faithfully drops well below the waist. The design’s most distinctive detail is a very pronounced curved hem with a gusset patch.

Obana and Brooks Brothers recreated a shirt that emphasizes and enhances the relaxed and comfortable nature of the Oxford shirt. It was the hoodie of peak Ivy style, ubiquitous and transcending formality levels.

a white oxford shirt
N. Hoolywood founder Daisuke Obana claims this is the perfect white shirt.
N. Hollywood

The Oxford shirt is so useful today because it can still occupy that sartorial niche and looks unquestionably more respectful than a hoodie. If you’re looking for proof of concept, the Brooks Brothers for N. Hoolywood White Oxford Shirt is the best place to start.

Availability and pricing

The Brooks Brothers for N. Hoolywood White Oxford Shirt will be available from N. Hoolywood and Brooks Brothers Japan on April 12 for $215. Both websites ship internationally.