The best T-shirt for the job isn’t a mint one, fresh out of the plastic wrap — it’s vintage. Tees that’ve already lived a life or two are just more comfortable. Plus, they have more character. You should invest in tees no one else (or at least a rare few) can own. Here’s why.
What to Know
Holes and Stains
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If you’re daring enough, some vintage tees will come with a few air vents (read: holes) or visible stains. Though, obviously, this isn’t for everyone. But, since designers constantly look to vintage garments for inspiration, it’s no surprise that there are brand-new hole-ridden tees you can buy for the same price as a rare vintage band tee.
Stitch
Most vintage T-shirts, at least the valuable ones, are single-stiched. Single-stitch T-shirts feature one visible line of stitching on the front side and two underneath, creating what sewers call a lockstitch. This stitch is more durable, albeit harder to do — hence why companies phased it out in the mid-90s.
Graphics
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Depending on how the graphic was printed, vintage graphic tees can patina in different ways that collectors find desirable. Many graphics can crack over time, adding another textural element to the T-shirt along with the cultural significance (or personal significance) to said graphic.
Fabric (and Thinness)
If you found a 60/40 tee, meaning one that’s made from a mix of mostly cotton and partly polyester, it’s probably a little sheer by now. That’s bound to happen, and this means the shirt’s a little delicate.
As for all-natural shirts, gradually the cotton fibers of a T-shirt will relax and break down with wear and washing. Repeat friction against the skin and in the wash slowly degrades the fibers until they break and become soft.
Vintage vs. New
That’s why your oldest T-shirt is probably your most comfortable and it’s the reason brands try to sell you a tee with a ‘lived-in’ or ‘broken-in’ or ‘vintage’ feel. They do this by putting their tees through the wash with chemicals and pumice stones (not great for the earth) to break down those fibers and make them softer.
“A good vintage tee is preferably very soft and worn in but with the seams intact,” Club Vintage founder Anna Gray says.
Because these well-loved tees have been put through the wringer, they’re also often thinner. Sometimes even paper thin. Some might not consider that a good thing, but it’s part of what makes vintage tees ideal for summer. There’s less material and less weight in the T-shirt, allowing for better airflow to keep you cool.
Old Things Tell Stories
Manufactured vintage-inspired tees lack the charm of a true vintage tee. Part of the allure of a vintage tee is its patina — the stories it tells. That includes the holes and the softened texture of the fabric itself, but it’s also the particular fade of the dye. Vintage tees that have been sun-faded or bleached in non-uniform ways often have higher price tags at boutiques or vintage stores for their unique character. If you’re a fan of a well-faded pair of blue jeans, you should also be a fan of a sun-bleached tee.
How to Pick One for Your Personal Style
On whether or not you really need to know the band (or restaurant) on the front, Gray says “No, you definitely don’t need to know every song a band has ever made.” And although it’s smart to know at least a few songs, you shouldn’t feel unsure about yourself for simply rocking a shirt. “If anyone rags you for that, they’re projecting their own insecurities. We don’t attribute this kind of exclusive wearer’s rights to any other category of clothing, do we?” she asks.
Podcast host (and T-shirt collector) Chris Black agrees, but he doesn’t want folks to hunt down a tee just because a celebrity wore it.
“You don’t have to know every word from every album cut, but it doesn’t hurt,” he says. “Wearing a shirt solely based on the “coolness” of the graphic is not the move, though. Although I am sure Travis Scott listens to a lot of early Metallica in the Lamborghini truck.”
He’s surely joking, but even he’s bought a shirt from a band he’s never seen live: “For me, nostalgia plays a big part in it all. I naturally lean towards bands I love but never saw in their prime: R.E.M., Teenage Fanclub, and 10,000 Maniacs,” he explains.
If you search for tees based on your own, albeit niche, personal taste, you’re sure to find one no one’s ever seen before, because most vintage tees are limited-edition, so you won’t have to worry about someone else having the same exact one.
How Much Should You Spend?
“People paying 1K USD for a Happy Monday’s long sleeve is silly. That being said, just buy something you love,” Black says. Meaning outweighs monetary value, he argues.
Gray agrees: How much you spend on your T-shirt is “between you and your bank account!” she says. But there are several sound reasons why one might cost more than another.
“Some tees are rare and thus more valuable,” she explains. “My best tees are free (stolen from exes). If you’re spending more than a $150 on a tee then I suggest you really like and/or have a sentimental connection to the band/brand/logo. Just for posterity’s sake.”
Chef (and author and YouTuber) Matty Matheson agrees, even if he’s made a few financial mistakes along the way. “How much you’re willing to spend is how much you should spend,” he says. “You can get a good vintage tee for a dollar… It all depends on what you’re willing to pay, what you feel it’s worth and how happy it makes you. I bought an original, self-titled Rage Against the Machine long-sleeve for $750, and it doesn’t even fuckin’ fit — I thought it would, but fuck me, right?”
Where to Buy Vintage T-Shirts
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So, where do you get a vintage tee for yourself? These days, mostly online. Pore through eBay, Etsy and Instagram and you’ll find endless supplies of the tastiest tees. Because they’re online, you’ll want to make sure to know your measurements to get the sizing right, especially since each piece is unique. And, like any other vintage hunting, it might take you a while to find the right one. But, that’s part of the fun.
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