Beyond the superfluous peacocking and masquerading that the biannual international menswear tradeshow Pitti Uomo has become so known for, a dying breed of patrons continues to uphold the true essence of authenticity in traditional men’s clothing. These faithful few remain deeply devoted to menswear at its purest.
For four days we were on the ground in Florence for the 91st edition of the show, and while there we talked with five distinct gentlemen from far and wide whose respective styles are both timeless and distinct.
David Coggins, Menswear Writer, Journalist & Editor
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Fit is everything, but popular men’s fashion publications today will lead you to believe good fit means a wetsuit-like tightness. Not only is this uber slim trend just that — a trend — it is also incredibly uncomfortable and restricting. Mr. Coggins leaves ample room within his coat for his double-breasted jacket and accompanying scarf without looking or feeling overly large. Notice as well the occasion and setting — a gray and damp afternoon. The generous cut of the coat leaves a little extra room within for air between garments, and the heavy wool fabric gives maximum comfort and coziness, all the while looking masculine and timeless.
Mr. Attanasio, a blogger and eyewear designer, has mastered the art of soft, Neapolitan tailoring. His cashmere coat hangs on his suit naturally thanks to the absence of shoulder padding. Ask your tailor for only canvas within the shoulder, and to achieve that raised effect in the sleevehead, request your shoulder con rollino (Italiano for “with little roll”). If you chose large peak lapels like Mr. Attanasio, try a double pic stitching to really make the angles appear three-dimensional.
Mr. Lundh, a clothing agent from Sweden, tastefully demonstrates the practice of playing with textures. Instead of focusing on pops of color when at the drawing board, he looked to the nuances in fabric weaves. The qualities in the almost-birdseye knit of the tie with the rough inconsistencies in the jacket pair beautifully with the medium-weight flannel trouser for a look that is understated, subtle and tastefully unique.
For your next bespoke or made-to-measure commission, opt for an ulster coat. This classic overcoat is typically cut a bit larger in the body, and traditionally is cinched at the waist with a rear belt. Mr. Fries, the co-founder of Shibumi Berlin, a menswear accessories company, balances the fuller coat with quite loose, nonchalant details, wearing it open with a loosely tied cream cashmere scarf hanging in front. Lastly, if you ask your tailor to cut the upper arm slightly larger so as to create the beautiful puckering at the shoulder seam, or “grinze,” you’ll achieve a softer finish on the broader silhouette.
Taking queues from Mr. Mannby’s rustic, almost English countryside flavor of menswear, note how he dresses down a jacket and tie by layering in casual pieces. The bright orange scarf in a chunky knit, the nylon watch strap in muted hues, and the tame browns of the wool glen plaid cap are such notes. He also pieces in a neutral cardigan, which goes a long way in toning down the ensemble so as not to draw too much attention to the shirt and tie.
