Hawaii saw the arrival of its first Japanese immigrants in 1885 and today, residents coming from Japan amount to nearly 17% of the population on these Pacific islands. Their cultural influence is part of the fabric of Hawaii and yet Ken Hirata is the only producer of one of Japan’s most consumed spirits, Shochu, on Oahu.
Hirata was first inspired to begin producing Shochu more than 20 years ago while on a Hawaiian vacation. Inspired by a fermented taro dish, poi, Hirata was reminded of the spirit — traditionally made from sweet potato — a vegetable that’s in no short supply here. The thought stayed with him, and years later, when looking for a simpler life, Hirata decided to go all-in on his plan to launch a shochu brand on Oahu.
First learning the craft, however, is not so simple. Hirata began by approaching a master, begging to become his apprentice. “Usually that type of technique — recipes and everything — is passed within family members, generation to generation,” he says. His request was denied repeatedly, but finally, after his eighth try, his master accepted. Now relocated in Kagoshima, Hirata studied Shochu-making for three years (a crash-course, he says).
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