What is Cuban food? According to Madelaine Vásquez Gálvez and Imogene Tondre, authors of the Cuba: the Cookbook, it’s quite a lot. Pasta, french fries, hamburgers, borscht, mullet with cheese and more vexing “Cuban” recipes. But the authors paint a picture of Cuba that’s something akin to the way Americans view their country — a melting pot. The pair argue Cuban history is marked with a who’s who of European and Caribbean influence — Russians, Italians, Haitians, Spaniards and so many more have influenced Cuban cooking and molded it to what we know it as now. And for most people outside Cuba that means one thing: the Cuban.
A splendid, crusty, mustardy, vinegary, meat-packed gem of an idea that, like the rest of its home country, is a sum of many parts. According to the book, some believe it was the Italians who brought the salami, the Spanish the ham, the Germans the pickles and mustard and the Cubans, naturally, the pork. By all accounts, this recipe is as definitive as we’ll get to what a Cuban actually is, which, as it turns out, is a lot of things.
Cuban Sandwich
Serves 3
3 tablespoons mustard
1 loaf Cuban bread (ends cut off, split in half lengthwise)
6 slices ham
9 slices roasted pork
9 slices genoa salami
9 slices Swiss cheese
9 slices pickle
½ tablespoon butter
6 lettuce leaves
1 large tomato (sliced)
½ small white onion (sliced)
1 teaspoon vinegar
1 teaspoon olive oil
¼ teaspoon salt
From Madelaine Vásquez Gálvez and Imogene Tondre Cuba: The Cookbook