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Here’s What a Century of Japanese Whisky Tastes Like

We sipped the 100th-anniversary editions of Suntory’s most cherished single malts.

whisky samples Johnny Brayson

By Johnny Brayson

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Japanese whisky may not have become popular in the West until this century, but the Japanese have been perfecting the art of Scotch-style whisky-making for a lot longer than that. 2023 marks the 100th anniversary of the company known today as Suntory, which opened Japan’s first commercial whisky distillery, the Yamazaki Distillery, in 1923.

Over the course of the ensuing century, Yamazaki and other Japanese distilleries operated by Suntory, such as Hakushu and Chita, have gone on to make some of the most acclaimed and sought-after whiskies in the world — mostly of the single-malt variety but also some top-notch malt and grain whisky blends.

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This year, Suntory has marked its 100th anniversary with a series of special releases. Some of these 100th Anniversary Editions are simply special celebratory bottles that contain otherwise standard bottles of whisky, such as the Hibiki Japanese Harmony and the Yamazaki and Hakushu 12-Year-Olds. That’s all fine and good for collectors, but for more interesting to whisky-drinkers are the new whiskies that have been cooked up as part of the celebration.

Of those, there are also three, from the same trio of product lines. There’s a version of Yamazaki 18-Year-Old single-malt that’s been aged exclusively in rare, expensive Mizunara oak casks for its entire 18-year maturation. There’s a peated malt version of Hakashu 18-Year-Old single malt. And finally, the crown jewel of the collection is a blend, which should sound pretty shocking to Scotch fans. For this blend of the already super-premium and sublime Hibiki 21-Year-Old, chief blender ​Shinji Fukuyo swapped out the traditional sherry casks used to age the whisky for Mizunara oak.

Curious to find out what a century spent in the pursuit of whiskey-making perfection tastes like, I secured a sample of all three Japanese whiskies in the Suntory 100th Anniversary Collection. Here’s what I thought of them.

All whiskeys were sampled neat from a whiskey tasting glass. To learn more about our testing methodology and how we evaluate products, head here.

House of Suntory 100th Anniversary Limited Edition Whiskies: What We Think

I mean, what’s not to like? These are tweaked, extra-special versions of three premium whiskies from some of the best distilleries in the world aged between 18 and 21 years. Of course, they’re each astounding, but all in their own way. The Hakushu gives the best of Islay a run for their money in its mastery of peat smoke flavor, the Yamazaki shows why Mizunara oak is so hyped and the Hibiki proves that a blended whisky can be a truly transcendent experience when you have blenders who make it their life’s work to prove that point.

The downsides? There are two, and they go hand in hand: price and availability. The SRPs of the three bottles are eye-popping enough, ranging from $1,200 for the Hakushu to $5,000 for the Hibiki. But, like all hyped whiskies (and whiskeys), they’re impossible to purchase at retail, and buying all three on the secondhand market will set you back at least $15,000 — likely more. Is it worth it? It’s hard to argue that any whisky is, but these may come the closest of any absurdly pricey hooch I’ve tried.

Products in the Guide

  • Hakushu 18 Year Old Peated Malt 100th Anniversary Edition

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  • Yamazaki 18 Year Old Mizunara 100th Anniversary Edition

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  • Hibiki 21 Year Old 100th Anniversary Edition

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Hakushu 18 YO Peated Malt 100th Anniversary Edition

japanese whisky sample in hand
Suntory describes the peat smoke in this Hakushu 18 as “gentle,” but I found it to be powerfully smoky (and deliciously so).
Johnny Brayson
  • Proof: 96
  • SRP: $1,200
  • Market Price: $2,705

Nose: Yep, this is peated all right. Heavy peat smoke on the nose; I’m expecting a smoke bomb.

Palate: Not much smoke at all up top … but just wait. Upon first sip, it’s surprisingly sweet with notes of honey and plum; not at all what I was expecting. But on the backend the peat bludgeons you with intense waves of smoky, briny flavor. Eat your heart out, Islay.

Finish: This fills your mouth with smoke after swallowing — I half expected there to be a visible puff when I exhaled. If you’re not into heavily-peated whiskies, you probably won’t like this. I am, and I love it.

Yamazaki 18 YO Mizunara 100th Anniversary Edition

japanese whisky sample in hand
What does 18 years in Mizunara oak casks do to the classic Yamazaki Single Malt? Well, it sure doesn’t ruin it.
Johnny Brayson
  • Proof: 96
  • SRP: $1,500
  • Market Price: $3,830

Nose: There’s quite a bit going on here, and it’s very sweet and rich. I mostly get apple, oak and a distinct resinous note.

Palate: Lots of smooth malt character; unsurprisingly it tastes like a well-aged — and expensive — single-malt Scotch. The big difference, of course, comes from the Mizunara, which here adds some incense and resin flavor. Overall this whisky tastes quite complex, bringing some good heat, bright fruity notes and a decent amount of spice.

Finish: Mostly oak on the finish with the faintest lingering burn.

Hibiki 21 YO 100th Anniversary Edition

japanese whisky sample in hand
Smooth may not be the most sophisticated word one can use to describe a whisky, but when a dram goes down this easy, it’s hard to come up with a better descriptor.
Johnny Brayson
  • Proof: 86
  • SRP: $5,000
  • Market Price: $9,557

Nose: This smells very delicate and slightly floral, almost like sweet grass and making a good olfactory match to its straw-like color.

Palate: Very unique. Not only is there no discernible burn, but there’s almost a cooling sensation when drinking this whisky. Quite possibly the smoothest-drinking whisky I’ve ever experienced, and easily the smoothest blended whisky. Like the nose, the taste is delicate and floral, with a hint of sweet fruit and a delightful touch of coconut from Mizunara aging. A once-in-a-lifetime type of dram.

Finish: Clean and lip-smacking all at once, I’m both tempted to take another sip and save the rest of my meager one-ounce sample for a special occasion.

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