Cabernet Sauvignon is the alpha daddy of wine varietals. It’s big, bold and everywhere. It’s the main grape in Bordeaux blends (at least on the left bank of the Garonne estuary), and, as a result, it’s been a strong player in the history of California winemaking, given that Napa Valley winemakers have historically looked to Bordeaux as a primary reference point. Common tasting notes for a traditional “Cab” are black currant (or cassis), plum and cherry, with the cool, herbaceous quality of eucalyptus. And because of its natural, full-bodied intensity, the wine is often paired alongside big food flavors, particularly the steak dinner.
Commonly, the association of Cabernet to meat comes from habit. But it turns out there’s some sense to the madness too. “Meat is a quick reference point with Cabs, and I think its a valid one,” says Lorena Ascenios, the head buyer at New York City’s Astor Wines & Spirits. “You’re pairing two like things that just work really well together. Cabernet Sauvignon also caters to the American palate, which craves something obvious, as opposed to subtle.” Matthew LaSorsa, the proprietor of Brooklyn’s Heights Chateau, agrees. “Every wine sits on a frame,” he says. “It’s got its fruit, its complexity and its acidity. A really good steak, on the other hand, has marble — that’s fat. Cabernet’s high acidity balances fat, giving you that wonderfully interesting fleshiness in steak.” For Marco Pasanella, the proprietor of Pasanella & Son Vitners downtown, Cab’s “not your only choice, but it does makes sense,” he says. “You want a wine with cojones. And the more raw the steak, the more umph you want in your wine.”
To take out the guesswork, and help avoid blank stares at your next visit to the wine store, these industry experts have weighed in with their favorites across a range of price points.
The Experts (From Left): Lorena Ascencios is the head buyer at Astor Wine & Spirits, at 399 Lafayette St, in Noho, NYC, and has been with the company for over 17 years, starting with her role in sales. Marco Pasanella is the proprietor of Pasanella & Son Vintners, at 115 South St, which has been open for over ten years, focusing on small producers and “discoveries.” Matthew LaSorsa grew up in Brooklyn, and opened Heights Chateau (123 Atlantic Ave), today a trusted neighborhood institution, over 25 years ago in Brooklyn Heights.
Under $20
Budget-Friendly Finds
