This is Chef Staples, where professional chefs dish on the gear they couldn’t cook without. This week: Chef Nico Russell of Oxalis in Brooklyn, NY.
Nico Russell spent most of his cooking career working at Michelin-starred restaurants. Then he started his own restaurant, a pop-up in Brooklyn called Oxalis, and found acclaim for what The New Yorker called “a tasting menu that’s a fine-dining bargain.” The pop-up soon became permanent, and in 2020 the Michelin Guide awarded Russell’s restaurant a star of its own. The menu is produce-centric, but not vegetarian, with a cooking style that leans French. Since the coronavirus pandemic forced New York City restaurants to shift to outdoor dining, Oxalis is only serving an a la carte menu in its courtyard. Locals can also head to Oxalis Pantry, the restaurant’s webstore, to order at-home meal kits, pantry staples and booze. Russell, who has been working out how to maintain his restaurant on outdoor dining alone, took some time to share his top cooking tools — and none are over $20.
Ateco Cake Tester
Courtesy“From the moment I got introduced to these items I have used them for everything. If you look in most kitchens you will see the ubiquitous blue top hanging out chef jackets or shirts. They just rock. At Oxalis, we use them to check temperatures of protein or check the doneness of vegetables. They really help us gauge the texture and temperature of the item without cutting it open. This is another tool that is never too far from me either at home or at Oxalis.”
