Could This Dead-Simple Innovation Rewrite the Rules of Running Apparel?

Brands have spent billions developing futuristic breathable materials for athletic wear, but the best approach might be a bit lower tech.

running apparel ventilation macroGoldwin

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Climacool. Tech Vent. Dri-Fit. 

From Adidas to Under Armour to Nike and so many more, the stream of cleverly named breathable materials is seemingly endless.

Goldwin 0 Advanced Gleam L:S T-shirt diptych
The Goldwin 0 Advanced Gleam L/S T-shirts (and shorts) are the latest in a long line of holed-out running garments.
Goldwin

They are the result of billions of dollars and countless hours of research and development, all in pursuit of an elusive goal: helping you reach for your wallet stay cool and dry during serious exercise.

Ironically, the best approach may be one requiring no fancy fabrics at all. It’s enough to make one exclaim, “Holey shirt!” Literally.

The power of moth

To put a fine point on it, what we are talking about here is the simple act of ventilating a garment by putting holes in it. 

This technique has come back to the forefront thanks to the recently launched Goldwin O Performance Capsule (more on that later), but the basic concept is not new.

satisfy mothtech shirt
Introduced 10 years ago, the MothTech T-shirt boasts 353 five-star reviews.
Satisfy

It dates back at least a decade, when boutique running brand Satisfy introduced the MothTech T-Shirt, so named because it has the appearance of being moth-eaten.

The Paris-based brand’s garment is especially lo-fi in that it is not made of advanced materials but rather classic cotton. 

According to Satisfy, “MothTech holes are body-mapped to provide a unique ventilation system.” 

Whether that’s worth $140 is an entirely different story.

Sincerest form of flattery?

Even before Goldwin’s launch, this ventilation method returned to the news stream early this year, when Robbe Reddinger at Believe in the Run called attention to a new Nike tee.

Dubbed the Dri-FIT ADV Short-Sleeve Running Top, it features “targeted ventilation” that bears more than a passing resemblance to Satisfy’s shirt. It’s also a bit more affordable at $100.

Nike Dri-FIT ADV Short-Sleeve Running Top
This Nike running top looks less artistic and more technical than Satisfy’s, but the resemblance is hard to miss.
Nike

The similarity was so striking that Satisfy actually issued a press release distancing itself from the Nike product and expressing its disappointment in what it viewed as a blatant ripoff.

“Designed in 2015 by Founder and Creative Director Brice Partouche, MothTech isn’t just another running shirt; it represents the genesis of SATISFY’s DNA,” the brand stated.

“It crystallizes the intersection of culture, performance and functionality, serving as the foundation for our disruptive approach to redefining running culture.”

womens ventilated apparel
Clockwise from top left: Decathlon, Seeq Active, Clique Fitness and Lululemon have all taken their own cracks at openly ventilated workout gear.
Gear Patrol

Which may be true, but last time I checked, you can’t copyright “holes.” 

And heck, a bit of research reveals that a bevy of (sometimes rather decorative) women’s fitness garments with various forms of laser-cut ventilation, some of which may date back more than a decade.

A hole new approach

Which brings me to Goldwin’s new trail running-inspired capsule, which emerged from a team-up of TechLab, the brand’s research facility, and Nur Abbas, creative director of Goldwin 0, a special branch developing products that are equally pretty and practical.  

Aiming for breathability and safety, the five items — a long-sleeve T-shirt, a half-sleeve T-shirt, shorts, half tights and a trail pack starting at a hefty $160 — are united by strategically placed ventilated and reflective panels.

Goldwin 0 Advanced Gleam T-shirt
As you can see here, the Goldwin capsule’s holes are not exactly subtle.
Goldwin

How do they differ from some of the aforementioned apparel? First off, the material itself is a polyester/elasterell blend that is inherently sweat-wicking, quick-drying and comfortable.

But more importantly, the holes are noticeably bigger and also reinforced with individual gaskets, ensuring they don’t evolve from holes to straight-up tears over time.

Whether that makes this apparel “better” is hard to say, but if you’ve got money to burn and an aversion to busting out a pair of scissors on your current wardrobe, it’s certainly worth a look.